Friday 11 October 2019

Wet and cold again! to Vukovar

On days like today, I have to remind myself that there are times when cycle touring sucks!  Even in Japan, I have had days like today...  so lets not blame Croatia, just keep pedalling.
Yesterday was so hot and sunny but when the forecast was for rain, I was sure that they had got it wrong...  but no... in the morning, it was cold, grey and big drops of water were tumbling down from the sky!  Unbelievable!!! 
But after a great breakfast, Hennie was once again loaded with all these bags and we set off... in a somewhat cranky mood, because the Maps.Me app, which has been working so wonderfully, has decided to die and after some frantic searching, I have uploaded another app that allows me to mark waypoints and it did get me to Vukovar today, but its a bit cranky...  or maybe it was just sulking because it was too cold and wet!  we shall see... 
anyways - back on the road... the guide book said that today was going to be boring, just riding along the road.  It was right...  so I needed coffee!  In first little town, I pulled up and asked a young fellow where I might buy a coffee... he pointed out the cafe, so I pulled up and went inside... Cough and splutter!!!  yes, smoking inside is OK here!  seems sad that the Croatians won their war and are now killing themselves with alcohol and tobacco...  Yes, at 10:30 there were groups of men - 5 or 6 at each table, drinking beer or probably vodka and smoking...  I got my espresso, skolled  it down and shot out the door, gasping for fresh air... Suddenly the cold and wet wasn't so bad and wot?  the rain had stopped! 
so back on the road again - and by the time I got to Vukovar - Alive!! - I knew there was a lot to be thankful for!  Drivers here, seem to like playing Russian Roulette... if there was no oncoming traffic, I knew I was safe, drivers will move totally to the other side giving me a whole lane...  But!!  if there's oncoming traffic, they just think and hope that the oncoming traffic will slow down, make room, whilst at the same time, skimming past me and frightening the daylights out of me...  JC was called up many times and thankfully, it wasn't my time to die today!  am still thankful, but also very amazed... 
so a fast 51km - head day and pedal as hard as possible...  but that meant I turned up at Vila Rosa much earlier than I had advised... and being off peak, there was no one home...  a number to call, but no mobile phone connection... International Roaming doesn't always work...  So I decided to ride back to the centre and find some lunch...  There was a fast food outlet, but looked like it only sold hot dogs...  and they confirmed this when I asked...  I went into another place - but they don't serve food, just drinks...  so I went into another one next door, same answer and after the 3rd place, I gave up and went back to Vila Rosa, dragged out my coat and scarf and got comfy in the chair outside...  a bloke walked past, stopped and came back and asked me if I had a booking and when I said yes, he said he would go and get his wife!  so alls well that ends well... Vila Rosa is a charming little place, old building and really Charming!!!  and so I am tucked up here and not going anywhere tonight!!!  and am hoping that the sun is shining tomorrow!  Please! 
The guide book tells me tomorrow's ride is the most strenuous for the track - up and down to the river and over ridges!!  geez!!  just hope that the sun is shining!!   stay tuned!! 

At last, a town square not being used as a parking lot - Osijek


there's evidence of a troubled past - many old buildings have pock-marks
of bullets fired, not so long ago....  sad!

Hail Mary!!  thanks for getting me to Vukovar in one piece

a very welcome cup of tea and home-baked cookies... 
Very Nice!!


5 comments:

  1. Wowee what a trip this is? It’s really throwing everything at you and sounds like tomorrow will be another trying day. Fingers crossed for better weather and less traffic. Xoxoxo

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  2. sunshine helps every time - tho the climbs were steep, it was safer to walk up them! so all good! :)

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  3. Chris, mate, buddy, you comment on the bullet holes in some buildings, but not what that war was about. The Victoria and Albert Museum in London has similar wartime pockmarks, as does numerous building in in Potsdam, Germany, and I can tell you about the leading combatants and why they went to war.
    You comment on the cafe being inhabited by smoking drinking males in the morning, but not why there were no females present.
    Croatia has a long-term Islamic history and/or large proportion of Islam population, rather than muslims moving into a Western culture, and sharia and hard line Islam is increasing each year, especially on the eastern borders.
    Be careful, especially in some regions if you are not abiding by sharia - which is not your natural political and social belief system.

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  4. I just thought most people would remember the break up of Yugoslavia in the 1990s... Serbia is Orthodox, Croatia is Catholic... Muslims are minorities in both countries... I think I will be alright!

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  5. ... well, technically Islam is the second largest religion in Croatia, after Christianity - and growing.
    However, having information and being alert in certain locations makes travelling as safe and interesting as it can be.
    I guess if one worried about everything that could go wrong while travelling, then one would stay home with a blanky over their head.

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