Monday 30 April 2018

Day 5 - Up along Lake Biwa to Adogawa

a beautiful sunrise put me in a good mood and after trying all sorts of different foods for breakfast, with everyone watching (I was complimented on my dexterity for chopstick use!!) I loaded up Hennie and we turned our noses to the north...  I kept finding little paths along the Lake's edge, keeping away from the traffic as much as possible...  so all good...  heaps of farming land and the rice seedlings are being planted at the moment, so the paddy fields are a hive of activity...  stumbled upon R601 which is a bike path - maybe it goes right around the Lake and this is first time I have seen serious bike travellers - some lycra lads beating strava BPs, some just doing a section haven't ridden since they went to school, some serious pannier loaded travellers and everything in between...  but they were all going the other way - maybe I was going to wrong way?
managed to find the Yobaino Falls with some help from 3 lycra lads who didn't have any more idea than I did, except they had mobile phones with more access than I did and soon I was puffing up a steep mountain track (I knew about this already) and parked Hennie near the toilets and headed off even higher on foot...  the falls were well worth the walk - up through beautiful forest with maple in new leaf and birds peeping and tweeting and still I have no clue what they are!!  I climbed right to the top - some really steep steps section, but was glad I went all the way... 

I managed to stop at the Shinto Shrine that stands at the lake's edge out from the Shiga Shrine...  again a bit commercial, but quite beautiful buildings and the Shrine is pretty nice...

Saw heaps of herons again today - I think they are fishing probably for frogs as the paddy fields are filled with frog song - but haven't actually seen one yet...

tomorrow we're heading west for Obama and hoping that the hills are gentle!





















1 of 3 Fried Burdock left, followed by softened Camembert with cucumber 

Fried potato rose

freshest cripest salad ever!


Day 4 - Exit Kyoto - hello forests and Lake Biwa

There's never enough time to see all you want to see, but The Bamboo Walk was top of my list - but it was in the wrong direction.  well, its only another 10km out and back, I can do that...  Think everyone else in Kyoto thought the same and so another crowded event.  a little disappointed tho - the bamboo was quite pale - obviously its not the right time of the year and too many people to enjoy its magic...

The river near by was quite pretty with old punts taking tourists for a ride... a magic encounter with a woman playing a bamboo flute down by the riverside, did feel really authentic.

but as usual, I got lost, but found myself before I had gone too far and eventually got onto the road I had planned and headed for the hills...  a gentle hill but the traffic added an unwanted effect..  but all good especially as there was a wonderful downhill swoop to the shores of Lake Biwa - the largest lake in Japan and apparently the 2nd oldest in the world - or so I've been told...

with a little help from the friendly staff at Toyopet (car sales place I think!) who printed out Google maps showing me the way to a wonderful little Japanese Inn that was pet-friendly - and I mean really friendly...  every one had a pet or 4 except me..  I got to talk to and pet the old daschound that belong to Kiyo - the boss - and a Samurai woman too!  very friendly family run business - wonderful hot bath and just generally the sorta place I love - no pretensions here!  so all good!

opened the window and listened to the gentle waves reaching the shores and had the best sleep ever!
btw - the reception area's ceiling was plastered with photos of all the pets and there were 3 or 4 Westies visiting too...  they sounded just like Laddie!

Farewell Standard Cabin - comfy if a little tight!

love these curved bridges

was tempted, but time doesn't always stretch that far!

beautiful flute playing - was just right

bamboo walk - crowded and still a bit early

back to the hills and forest (and traffic)






Westies on holiday down at Lake Biwa












Sunday 29 April 2018

Day 3 - Kyoto Tourist

It's true - I am wheely a person who loves bikes!!  Hennie and I set off to look for a big temple just down the road - along footpaths, dodging pedestrians, zinking onto the road when need be - all sans helmet and pretending I am Japanese!  and it worked!  Magic!  before long we were in front of the Higashi Temple - along with the rest of the population it seemed - this is the biggest wooden structure maybe in the world?  sat inside while monks were praying but no photos allowed.

then down along the Kamo river - on a wonderful bike path, tho the river itself isn't that beautiful.  I guessed when we should cross over and voila - exact spot!  by then I needed a shot of coffee so I pulled into the a little cafe and had an apple pastry with coffee and cream....  nice and strong so soon back on the road again heading for the temple with thousands of red Torii gates.  was starting to think it wasn't going to be that busy, but around the corner I discovered I was wrong!  I had to abandon Hennie in a special bike parking place and commence the walk - or climb to the top of Fushimi Inari Taisha - known for its thousands of red (orange/red) Torii (and steps).  Needless to say, the crowd thinned the higher one climbed.  I made it to the top!  There were a lot of young girls dressed in kimono - looking radiant!  maybe it is a tradition for whatever this public holiday was for.  there were only a few young men wearing the male equivalent to a kimono.  I didn't hesitate to photograph them, as I felt thats part of the deal...  they all smiled beautifully.
as most tourist places, its very commercial and at the beginning there are heaps of shops selling the usual charms and trinkets.  but its too early in the trip to be buying presents, so I just wandered upwards and then downwards again...  about halfway down I was getting hungry again so I stopped at a very traditional little cafe and ordered a serve of Inari - savoury spiced rice in fried tofu pouches.  its one of my favourite Japanese snacks.  they were really lovely - and it felt just right, sitting on the floor looking out at a Japanese maple in new leaf.
by the way - weather wise, its much warmer than I had expected - yep, too many winter clothes again, but I am heading north and up mountains so am sure they will come in handy..
Hennie and I zoomed down the hill and back to the river where we rolled all the way back into town...  still looking for the Philosophers walk and I might almost have found it but not quite - and the bamboo walk...  hope to do them on my way out of town tomorrow.
Found the Kyoto Castle but too late - it was closed, so headed back towards the Centurian.  I found the Nishimura Market district and slotted Hennie into a parking bay - yoiks its locked, so how do I get her out again - OK 100Yen will release her within 3 hours... no sweat.  I wandered around and decided to have dinner in a small upstairs restaurant - this time Rice Omelette - ie an omelette stuffed again with spiced rice, but with a tangy sauce - maybe sorta like Worcestershire ish!  I am doing quite well, really eating Japanese food.  but then I just needed something to finish off and found another little cafe where I had a twisted cinnamon donut with a decaf soy latte...  Bed is screaming to me - but once back at The Cabin I needed a good scrubbing and soaking then move into my standard cubicle.  it is big enough for me to sit on the single bed mattress - which fills the whole room...  there's a little locker - so like everyone else, I have all my stuff lined up against the wall outside.


Gateway to the Higashi Temple

Moat around the Higashi Temple

morning coffee n danish!

joining the crowds getting ready to climb up thru all the Torii gates


Monks don't get public holidays


lunch cafe

Inari at the Fushimi Inari Taisha temple walkway



too late to get to the Kyoto Castle

Dinner of omelette with spiced rice filling - quite yummy!

Friday 27 April 2018

Lift off and let down

So far on my travels I have had relatively few hassles...  but Jetstar decided to wake me up and our flight out of Cairns was delayed - 6 hours so we were boarding at the time we should have been arriving in Kyoto.  Knew it was going to get ugly!  having said that, it was best that they fixed the plane first... but it ended up meaning arriving at Kansai at 1am and by then there were no buses...  so after spending 9 hours hanging around Cairns, the flight of 6 hours, then another 4 hours at an empty Kansai airport, meant not only Cranky Chris, but a very tired Chris! am not good at sleeping on planes even tho I had 3 seats to myself...  eventually buses started running again and I made it Kyoto eventually arriving at Centurian Cabins and Spa...  of course, they charged me for the night I didn't turn up...  but at least they let me unload everything into my Superior Cabin and after a hot shower and a soak in the piping hot spa a bit of vigour returned to this tired old body!

I am just down the road from the Nishiki Markets, so I went for a stroll through a rather crowded covered mall with an amazing array of food I wouldn't have a clue was...  tho heaps of seafood -baby octopus to lumps of tuna I guess..  vegetables of all shapes and sizes but I was hungry and nothing looked vegetarian...  but then I saw sesame seed encrushed camembert cheese - and yep, not bad for breakfast!  amongst all the noise and shouting I heard - Tenpura - so I checked out what they had and yes they could do a meal without the bacon!  there were zucchini, mushroom, lotus root, Japanese mint, eggplant and more - plus an array of other vegetables - as well as miso soup (that didn't taste like fish) and a bowl of rice...  I couldn't get thru it all... burp!! 

the rest of the day, I spent trying to track down a cheap phone with a Japanese Sim card, in case I needed to make phone calls... but unless I want to sign a 6 month contract, its not possible.  even caught a bus to train station, to the largest electronic store - but no no no...  maybe at Kansai airport...  yes, they were all closed at 2am.....  sigh...  just have to hope I don't need to make an actual call...  came back to my superior cabin had 30 mins kip, then went downstairs and resurrected Hennie...  All the pieces were still they and they fitted together!!

Yay - so a stroll back to the Daimaru market for some tea and I bought a beer when I got here - and boy am I ready for some sleep!

just a couple of photos today...  hopefully tomorrow I can become a tourist again!



nothing to do at Cairns International Airport - for 9 hours!

another 5 hours at empty Kansai airport!

my first coffee in a can!  I really needed this!

Nishiki Market - fascinating place - a must do visit

vegies getting a pickling treatment

Tempura!  Yummo!

that's all ya getting on a bike!

Garbage truck for Carl

Flowers for Erica and Emma

Superior Cabin at Centurian

inside Superior Cabin - room for a futon and my junk