Final day of riding - to Ludvika, Sweden

Stora Tuna Kyrka - can be seen for miles away - it is Large!

all the gravesites had a beautiful raked pattern in sand - apparently the church gardener does it

Ski fields - very quiet

Romme Alpinn lodge - purple gravel not flax fields!

beautiful lake (again) with maybe a slag heap dumped on the side ?

You tell me!  I can't even guess

maybe connected to slag heap - so for mining??

Again!  back on Route 66 - nice shoulder and not too much traffic this time!
To Ludvika

The first thing I did when I woke up in Borlange, was pull back the curtain and check the weather - same as every morning...  Perfect weather at this time of the morning - 6am...  not a blade of grass was moving, not a single birch leaf quivering - oh if only it would stay this way!

I opened up Google to check for plans of exit from Borlange - the hotel was on the southern edge of town, which was great because I didn't have to ride through town again...  yes - there was a secondary road leading to Smedgebacken, then there would be about 15km dash along Route 66 to Ludvika.

so everything must somehow get put back into the panniers, riding clothes on and down to breakfast.  I thought the young guy on reception said 6:30 start for breakfast, but there was nothing happening - yep, that is far too early....  but by 7:30 the door was unlocked and apart from me, there was only one other partaker of the ample spread - and they had porridge but I didn't see it until I had filled my bowl with muesli.

soon Maggie was released from the storage room, loaded with all the gear - gopro set up, gps switched on and tied on - helmet, gloves, sunglasses - a bit sunscreen slapped on as well and away we go.

I had soon left the town behind me and was pedalling through fields, but wait!  here I am already in a small town that's not on the map...  yes, am going in right direction - hmmmm.....  should I have turned right earlier?  but there had been no roads.  think think think - no I will ride on some more...  I think that the suburbs of Borlange may have slipped out into the countryside here and as such weren't really another town, but it had me worried for awhile.  Eventually I came to a T-junction and luckily there was a man walking his dog, so I politely enquired whether I was on the right road to Halvarsgardarna and he confirmed that I was!

so away we went, heading south again.  I had been seeing a church spire for quite a way and it wasn't long before I was riding up past it.  the Stora Tuna Kyrk is very stora - ie Large.  I spoke with a couple who had arrived about the same time as me (by car) and they said that when it was built, the people of the town wanted their town to be the main one around, so they thought by building the biggest church they would become the centre.  but it wasn't to be - for some reason Borlange became the main town in this region.  an extension was added to the spire, but Stora Tuna Kyrke never became the centre.  But what was interesting was the gravesites in the churchyard.  They all had a sandy gravel covering which was raked in beautiful Japanese style patterns.  each one appeared to different and they were so neat, one would have to think that they are done every day.  But it was only 9am!  anyways, it was a nice touch.

so onwards we rode and soon out into the countryside again.  at first through the fields of grain, already yellow and getting ready for reaping.  Rumour has it that the crops weren't so good.  The hot dry weather had dried out the grain before it was fully mature, so the farmers weren't so happy.  It had been a really cold start to the growing season in June, then July was one of the hottest on record...  everyone was scratching their heads about the weather - its never been so hot!

on the hills to the east, I could see ski fields - looking very empty.  The forest is cleared away in wide tracks and alongside these bare tracks you can see the ski lift standing rather motionless (I am guessing, as I was a long way away!)  but it was very green, not white at all.

as I approached Halvarsgardarna I could see a rather steep hill ahead.  Oh yes, this must be the bump in the contour map....  am I ready for this?  why not!  about 1/3 of the way up the hill I could see a bike path, on the other side of the road, so I guess I should take that.  But it looked much steeper than the road!  and yes it was.  I huffed and puffed, but did not make it to the top!  slowly I pushed Maggie up the last little bit, pausing to listen to the birds - and to catch my breath.  But then the path totally ended and I found myself on gravel streets winding between houses.  OK - lets get back onto the main road before I get totally lost again!

after the previous day of punching into a head wind, it was great to be riding freely along through the wonderful scenery of Sweden.  after the Big Hill, there were a few more, but I could feel that the downs were getting longer than the ups!  phew!!  there was some forest to ride through, then down to the lakes level.  I really love riding alongside the lakes - they glitter between the trees and there's often places to stop to stretch the old legs and munch on a handful of nuts and an apple or banana.  Most of these lakes look deserted, but sometimes there's a pontoon or a boat pulled up on the side, evidence that other people are sometimes here.  but often there's no sign of anyone and so its so peaceful.

eventually I rode down the hill into Smedgebacken - a small town with an interesting square.  I bought a coffee and a muffin, just to get me through the last 15km or so to Ludvika and to check the maps to see if there was an alternative to Route 66.  Karina and I rode along this highway back into 2012 and it was a tad scary with no shoulder and cars flashing past at 100km, but that was much further east - in fact at the moment there are forest fires near Sala, that are proving very hard to control....

But I couldn't see any easy options, so head down and away we go.  It was actually a nice ride as there was a wide shoulder - for slower cars to move onto when being overtaken - and generally I had this all to myself.  At one place a rather large tractor bounced up behind me, but was easily able to overtake me without upsetting any cars.

Eventually I arrived at the outskirts of Ludvika - so better stop and plan my journey to the Railway Station.  Well, it looks like straight ahead, so away we went and amazingly, it was basically that.  I found the railway line and the bus terminal and eventually the railway station building.  There was the little Dalahest, standing on the road divide, saying "Velkommen to Ludvika" - made it!  I leant Maggie up against the wall and looked around as I took off my helmet.  Just then a grey Suzuki 4WD turned into the car park!  Yes! it was A&A arrived just at the same time to collect me.  What good planning that was!

So the end of a wonderful adventure in the Northern Hemisphere!  It seems so long ago that I was arriving in Moscow, all excited about that tour - then off to beautiful Norway (and their hills!) and then crossing into the Swedish wilderness and down to Dalarna!  two days of head wind are easily forgotten!  the rest were wonderfully different and exciting in their own ways.  The satisfaction of making it to the top of some hills, the exhilaration of flying down the other side - seeing those reindeers and all the sights, sounds and smells of different countries all make up a wonderful holiday.  I felt I saw a glimpse of the strength of the Russian people - how they have managed to survive so many changes and hardships and be so resiliant.  Meeting wonderful people in Norway and Sweden and always being treated with respect by all the drivers that waited till it was safe to pass - even in Russia!!

so now a week with my Swedish family friends - and then crash!  back to reality - but that includes kisses and cuddles from my 2 wonderful grandchildren - (I hope that LBC remembers me!!)

Thanks for sharing my adventures with me - I hope you have been entertained for some of the time at least!

Day 12 - Carl Larsson's Museum - and onto Borlange

the kitchen - wonderful feeling of Margaret Olley interiors at B&B

mossy rocks and lakes - says it all

Inside the Sondborn church

B&B - yellow house with a yellow fence

Carl Larsson's home - great light for his studio!!

trying to capture the wind in a photo....  check out the birch tree

an old stone barrier - hadn't seen one like this before

the road ahead - or behind - imagine the wind tunnelling along here - whinge whinge whinge!!

after breakfast, I went for a quick tour of this area again - it is so pretty and idyllic and easy to understand why Larsson jumped at the offer to a home here!  had a quick look in the church - it was quite a simple affair inside, but when I noticed the coffin, I sort of thought I should leave....
I waved goodbye to Lena and Lars and headed off to the museum.  I have looked into the history of Carl & Karin Larsson and here I was - in their home.  The next English tour was not for another hour, so I tagged along a Swedish tour with a written English booklet to help.  it was quite a buzz being in the home that actually features in many of his drawings.  The windows, the bedrooms and the studio - with the textiles created by Karin...  There was a tapestry by Karin and one by a friend - plus the really interesting door curtain she wove.  the furniture looked so familiar.  unfortunately, photography wasn't allowed. there was one Bruno Lillefors painting - white hare in the snow - hanging on the studio wall, so that was also a bonus!  so yep I did enjoy the whole experience...  I had a quick look around the gift shop and then headed off for a quick lunch at the little cafe just down the road and then toot toot!  we're on our way again.

Lars had said there were some short cut options to Hosjon - but all I saw were unsealed gravelly roads, so I stuck to the main one back to the motorway.  There was a bit of dashing to and fro to get across the motorway and onto the road I needed and eventually I pedalled down to the servo to get some more directions.  The guy was very helpful and soon I was on my way - once again struggling with the wind blowing right in my face. We rode alongside the lake for awhile, but then the bikeway disappeared and I had to do a dash along the major road again.  This wasn't the best of the day for sure.  No shoulder to ride on and constant traffic.  I had to get off and let cars pass as my pace was so slow and not easy to control wobbling around on some of the hills.
but eventually we made it to the turn off to Vika and back onto a friendlier road - except for the wind.  This road wound between open farmlands and small patches of forest and nothing much else.  I think if the wind wasn't in my face i would have really enjoyed this ride, but....  it was another day of struggle.  Maggie and I are getting pretty good with hills, but that head wind just adds a dimension that we don't particularly like - I was trying to control Cranky Chris and I mostly did, but occasionally I would crack and cuss a bit!!
But there is always an end to a daily journey and we coasted into Borlange with a little help from passer-bys.  why do signs point in the wrong direction?  I found the tourist info centre and got the name of a hotel and after pedalling past Ikea and wriggling around a bit I located the Active Hotel - think I might be the only person here - its just down the road from the Stadium and thankfully there aren't any games happening there this weekend, so plenty of room for me - and at 695kr I am happy as!

Tomorrow will be my last day riding in Sweden - I should get into Ludvika in a happy mood - as long as the wind dies down!

Day 11 - to Sundborn - Carl Larsson Country

Thought you might like to start off with some examples of 1950's luxury that are popular in this part of the world :)

not sure if this windscreen would pass rego!

who knows but....

Wicked :)

but then i do like red cars :)

 these were in the parking lot - travellers also - but in style

Leksand church - still locked when I was leaving

Bell tower - quite impressive

nice old rock wall around the church

old buildings in Open Air Museum

The midsummer pole still standing

no - not torture implements - unless you're a piece of dough at Leksand Bakeri

the ball on its way to freedom - or not!

another beautiful lake!

Canadian geese visiting Falun

Getting close to Larsson country now!  hmmm, would it fit in my panniers?

swimming spot 

Gravesite for Carl and Karin Larsson

Sundborn church, wooden shingles as is bell tower

Lena in her Tavern

The Bar

all that remains of an 8kg pike

The Barn - or pub & tavern

B&B - Swedish style

beer tasting room

happy with the choice of sherry :)

my balcony

good Golden Ale 

The wind was still blowing when I woke this morning – ah well, one can’t control the weather.

So I made myself breakfast, washed all the dishes, wiped everything down, cleaned the toilet and hand basin – looked for a vacuum cleaner but none was around – nor anyone to ask.  When I took the rubbish to the bins, I see a small brush and pan, so take that to sweep the room.  My bags all packed, beds made – that’s it….  I think they can earn some of their rather expensive charge…

I loaded Maggie and away we went.  Trouble with these small Swedish towns is that their blocks are so tiny – already I am at the wrong end of town and I thought that I had only travelled a few hundred metres.  Oh Well!  Back we go.  I might just send a Birthday greeting to a small lad who turns 1 today – Happy Birthday Jack – also to Morfar too!

So over the river and off down a small street to drop in and visit the Leksand bakery.  Not that I have any room for crispbread, especially their big rounds but it was more a nostalgia visit, following the visit in 2008.  I also bought a coffee to have with the remaining bread bun from tea – then toot toot!  We are on our way. 

Now – what a difference a wind makes – when it’s not blasting you in the face.  I was heading more easterly now and although the wind wasn’t always behind me, it was more from behind than in ya face.  So we went rolling away, first to Insjön.  I had planned to stay there last night, but had got puffed out and ended up in Leksand.  Now where to next – and then I saw a shop called Väveri (I think that’s right) – well I know väv is weaving, so this deserves a stop and a check out.  There were some nice Swedish style serviettes that I Must Have – and on Rea (sale) and there was also some very nice tapes in there – just right for decorating a real Svensk folk costume – I know someone who needs one of thoseJ  and I also got some directions on how to get to Falun not via motorway!

It was a really nice day riding again.  Up a lot and not enough down – how does that work?  But still really pretty country.  Some farming but it was more lakes and summer cottages.  At several of the lakes there were family groups sunbathing and swimming in the lake.  I stopped at one lake for lunch and while sitting there I noticed a beach ball floating out and away from the group.  The father saw it, but was also playing with his little son, so it can go.  But once it got level with me, the wind caught and blew it in right to my feet.  So, as I am still trying to replenish my karma bank (it was severely raided in Moscow and the bluddy Metro!) I took it back to the family and received some big smiles all round.  Sweet!

On I rode till eventually I came to Smedsbo and I turned left and just a little way noticed a nice sealed and wide bike way heading the right direction, so I thought I would try it out – see how far it goes.  Well, I reckon it went about 10km, right into Falun!  That’s nice!  But I didn’t get a good vibe in Falun…  why is that?  Who knows?  So I decided to try and find the Info centre and see if there was a bed available out in Sundborn.  With a little help from a passer-by I managed to find the centre – after struggling with Maggie up 3 levels of stairs.  Yes, there was a narrow ramp with steps next to it, but Maggie and her load weren’t meant for steps like that.  But we made it and eventually found the Info centre. 

The kind girl at reception called the SF Vandrahem in Sundborn (backpackers lodge ie) but they were full up. " Let me check if there is a B&B there."  Why yes there is!  And Yes they do have an available room tonight only.  Suits me!  So a new map and its as confusing as the others, when it comes to finding bike alternatives, so I head off in the right direction this time and find the bikeway closed!  Well, dang it – there’s always a good shoulder on a motorway and it’s not far to the Sundborn turn off, so away we go.  There was no sign saying No Cycles – so all was good and it wasn’t much different than riding along Logan road, but with less traffic so all good.  Soon I was heading off on the road to Sundborn.

So – why Sundborn?  Well, for many years we have been receiving beautiful calendars with paintings by Carl Larsson - a Swedish artist in the late 19–early 20^th Century.  He captures the idyllic lifestyle of the Swedish genteel folk – and I truly love the feeling of peace and harmony that are projected from these paintings.  So Sundborn was their family home and many of his paintings are of his family enjoying picnics by the lakes and interiors of their home.  His wife Karin, was also an artist, but after marriage, used her artistic flair for interior decorating their home with beautiful textiles etc.  and their home is now a museum in Sundborn and that explains it all.

Alongside the road into Sundborn are huge panels of sections of his paintings.  I can’t imagine how they aren’t stolen each night!!  I did take a good look to see how they were arranged and I reckon if you could cut one rope it would all unravel….  But Maggie is already overloaded, so maybe not this time J

Yes there were more hills today and a bit of traffic and a city – but there were beautiful lakes, not so many rivers, pretty little cottages and a feeling of all is well in the world (amazing how one can forget about the real horrors happening elsewhere).

So Lars had told me on the phone to look for a yellow house with a yellow fence on the way to the church.  It has a B&B sign out the front – which is just as well, as the house opposite also fits the description.

Lars and Lena welcomed me into their home – a typical Swedish timber home, upstairs and downstairs and as I found out later – a cellar as well.  They were a little rushed as they are leaving for Copenhagen tomorrow, but Lena showed me to my room and explained the bibs and bobs regarding breakfast and help-yourself to whatever… so fresh towels, a bed with all the line required, a fan whirring away to cool off the room – all for half the price of last night’s.  Yep, I was happy as.

After a quick shower to wash away the sweaty smells – I donned my bathers and dress (!!) and pedalled down to the lake for a swim!  I am sure Carl Larsson and his family picnicked here by the church….  Well, his and Karin and some of their family, lies quietly in the cemetery.  It was quite magical and the water temperature was around 24C and very very pleasant.  And Very shallow, I kept bumping into largish rocks, but it felt so good to cool right down. 

Then, back to the corner shop to buy something for dinner.  There was a pizzeria but I didn’t feel like pizza tonight, so just bought a pasta salad and (shock horror) an apple doughnut.  It was quite nice :)

I tried out the bed and had an hour’s snooze then thought I should do something… but then Lena came upstairs to see if I would like a look around.  There had been talk of a beer tasting evenings here.  So she took me to this non-descript little shed in the backyard and opened the door to this very small bar – absolutely loaded with every sort of beer imaginable!  And I could help myself to the fridge – 50kr for any beer.  The Lena turned on the light and in the next section was a small ‘tavern’ room.  They have evenings there, especially midsummer, where they take out the tables and dance on the ‘new’ wooden floor.  There was a nautical theme to the room because Lena is from Göteborg on the west coast. 

We went for a small walk in the garden, picked a couple of raspberries (but they are sooo small this year) but very tasty then we went down into Lars’ domain – the cellar under the house.  It used to be the potato cellar and also housed the well – maybe a spring – that used to supply the whole village.  (The house is about 100yrs old).  Lars collects mainly beers from all over the world.  He big thing is finding the best and exploring the different tastes of beers from many boutique breweries from all around the world.  Sadly he didn’t know of any Australian beers, but did have one from NZ…  hmmm…. Now that smarts!

Here they have ‘tasting’ evenings where you start with 3 beers and you keep the one you like the best and either drink or tip out the other 2.  Then you get 2 more to compare with your first chosen beer  - and so on, until after 9 choices you have made a decision on which one you like most.  Then you move into another smaller room (used to be the junk room) where Lars has his collection of spirits and wines from all over the world again.  He joined us to talk about why he likes to collect these things and a little bit about the history of some of these treasures.  He asked me if I would like to taste something and I admitted – as apparently many people do – that I am not a drinker of spirits.  But he thought I would like this sherry – and might I admit he was totally correct.  It was a Spanish one that just tasted like really ripe raisins – and no pips!  Smooooooth!!!  Oh yes!  I could really enjoy a small glass after riding home in the winter and needing something to cheer me up.  Apparently the barrels that this sherry is brewed in is very popular for (gad…. Can I remember?) aging whiskey in – I think that is right – or was it beer?  Whiskey sounds probable, but these micro beer breweries are doing lots of marvellous things these days!  Anyways!  Might I just reiterate – that Sherry was damn Fine!

So now to bed.  It is already getting dark (after 11pm) there is no wifi or phone coverage, so hopefully no one is panicking about Granny on her bike – because she is nicely chilled out on my -own little balcony – an empty bottle of Oppigårds – Golden Ale, brewed in Dalarna – which is where I am!

Goodnight!!!