I hadn't realised just how Soviet this area was... I am having flashbacks to my trip with Matias when we cycled through Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania... Serbia feels a bit like that trip, only with a lot more trash scattered around... am hoping that Serbians start thinking of ways to re-use their plastic - could be good employment opportunities.
So today, after a cranky stay at the pretentious Grad Plamen (was advertised as a B&B but actually a hotel), Hennie and I headed into town to stock up the food bag and it is the first town where I was actually a little worried about leaving Hennie, fully loaded, outside the supermarket... so locked her securely - back and front wheel - and zinked into the Mega supermarket... only not so mega and it gave me an idea that this town could be struggling... and no sweet pastries for morning tea... but coffee in UHT! Saved... I almost bought a 2 ltr bottle of metho... no colouring here, but because it was down where the washing powder was and there weren't many, I got a bit cluey and put it back... Yes, I do buy water here... when one sees how many bottles of water are for sale (and how many are scattered around) the locals mustn't trust their water supply either... I feel a bit hypercritical going on about litter and buying bottled water... am hoping that the places I stay at, put the rubbish out for collection and not just go and toss it in the bush... who knows!
However, today was back to the river and onto the rather rattling path along the flood dyke and I am smiling and Hot!! now one of the reasons why I chose this time of the year to go for a pedal here, was to experience autumn and a bit of chill weather.... so why am I pedalling along in 26 - 27s!! sunburnt lip and thinking I could have brought my 3/4 knicks!! dang!! but the autumn colours are all here and its happening really quickly... some trees that were yellow a couple of days ago are now almost leafless.. but there is still a lot of yellow and brown happening (sounds like the 70's!). I don't see the river that often, but I went down a track to a small village right on the edge... it was quite a nice little village - one row of nice beach shacks... ya just can't beat a beach shack I reckon.
The last 20km was back on the road, but it wasn't very busy and I became very passive and just hitting the grassy verge when a truck came along... at least the shoulder was tidy... The countryside had really changed as I turned away from the river looking for my booked accommodation in Bela Crkva (yeah... I do not know how to pronounce that!!) shades of dry Charters Towers... and chased by a dog or two... and I was worried about Romania!
Another stuff up with my booked vila! I couldn't find it... I had tagged it to Map.Me from the booking and here I am... standing on the exact spot - yes behind me is Hotel Laguna and in front??? a rather cute Vila Marija, but not the other one... OK... switch on Roaming and give them a call... yay, phone is working... but no one answers... dang! try again! rang out again... I had already gone into Vila Marija, in case there had been a change of name... but they had never heard of it - checked at the Hotel and she hadn't heard of it either... Oh Well... so I booked into the Vila Marija - costs me 1950 dinars for my room with en suite and breakfast included = $27... the other one cost me $40 so if they charge me I won't be that cranky! well... not That cranky!
I have stayed in so many different places - and I think the one last night was the worst and most expensive! on surface it looked flash - cost me $86 (inc breakfast) and was all glitzy... but when I struggled up to the 2nd floor (no lift) with my 4 panniers, was cranky to find my room again stank of tobacco... open the window, turn on the air con and fan on full blast - that did seem to help a little. There was a restaurant so I went down and the waiter asked the chef to prepare me some mushrooms with tomato creamy sauce and with a beer and a mineral water, I was pretty happy with that. Back in my room getting my blog done, I hear this thump of bass reverberating through the whole building... hope that's not going for too long... 1am! peace at last!!! so a couple of reviews for this place raved about the breakfast, so that might be its saving grace... but no! First in best dressed and by 7:45 there were only scraps left... dried salami slices do not appeal!! AND No coffee!!!!!!! I asked for one and just as I had given up the waiter appeared and asked if I wanted coffee... eventually got an very nice espresso... but too late I was not feeling forgiving... and I did mention it the guy when I handed in the key and got my passport back... now that hasn't happened before and it was a bit nerve-wracking too! so compared to the breakfast I had at Vila Rosa... French toast, with 4 different soft cheeses, fresh tomatoes and capsicums from their garden. Homemade apricot jam, home preserved figs - now they were delicious!!! freshly made espresso and conversation! and more!! fresh plums from their tree... well, you just can't compare the two!!
I have also stayed in a beaut little Ikea apartment and a quiet old and quaint Serbian apartment, plus there's been the usual hotel/motel rooms - some sweet smelling others reeking of tobacco... Tonight in Vila Marija I have a double bed, bedside tables and a wardrobe with an old analogue tv and a program with Serbian music... which I actually quite love! the bathroom is a little tight, but I have done my washing and all is hanging on the shower rail... No tobacco smell!! am happy!
More bike paths and some rough road ahead - even a hill, but I hope to make it Golubac, which is at the start of the Iron Gates Gorges and that means my holiday is drawing to close... so soon??? my legs are saying please!!!! but apart from all the whinges and groans I am actually enjoying myself and still loving this travelling...
will see what photos I can find for you... no promises as I need an early start tomoz because I need to catch the ferry to Ram and they only go every 3 hours - and I need to catch the 10am one or I am stuffed! stay tuned!
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welcoming tea and homemade biscuits at Vila Rosa, Vukova |
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My room at Vila Rosa |
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My room at Hotel Grad Plamen |
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Looks grand |
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But would those walls pass inspection? |
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Up on the bank again |
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Little weekenders |
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Original tiny home - make an offer! |
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Birds are all very nervous here |
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We should never be afraid to try something new. Amateurs built the ark, professionals built the Titanic |
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Lagoon at Bela Crkva |
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