Saturday 28 May 2016

Day 19: riding around a bit of Fårö

After the rocky beginning of our relationship, me and Fårö are getting along fine.  Breakfast was to be served at 9am, but the sun decided it should start the day at 3:30am…  luckily I was able to ignore it for another hour – and then for another 2 hours, so eventually I started moving at 6:30.  Thankfully I have my own coffee and filter and even had milk in the fridge too!  So pottered around having a snack because there was no way I was going to survive without something till 9am.
So I went for a walk down along the beach and saw the usual beachcombers – shelducks, seagulls, terns and pied oyster catchers.  Heard robin-redbreast chinking away in the juniper shrubs and of course sädersäla was there trotting around catching all those mossies before they caught me!  I discovered the funny sewage smell of this place – its either the usual seaweed or an algal bloom – but its yellow-greenish sludge along the beach and it smells a bit rank!!
Breakfast was really a special thing!  So beautifully presented – I had to come back and get my camera!  And the addition of 1930’s American swing music it was most enjoyable and well worth the wait.
So a rest day, but not totally.  I should just go for a small pedal, which turned into 50km of dawdling along – so much easier going without the wobbly panniers.  Went out to the limestone stacks which the northeast coast line is famous for and was a bit peed off when a tourist bus arrived…  what must it be like in the Season!!  I had actually been thinking of jumping on a tour myself, but realised that they all start in Visby!  Nothing happens in Fårösund!!
So I then pedalled back along the coast road along (yep there is more than one road), found a sheltered cove to sit and have my cheese sandwiches and watch the pied oystercatcher young pester their parents no end….  Btw – got bombed again by those pesky terns – they were nesting alongside the road to the Stacks and a helmet really comes in handy – it was pecky at my helmet, but no-way as rough as a magpie!
Came back to the Fårö church – apparently Ingmar Bergman is buried there and by the busload of young tourists I could guess where it was, but as I have only seen one of his movies – the only impression left was a dark and depressing theme – I didn’t feel the urge to go and stand by his graveside and pretend that I knew anything about him…. Neither did I stop at the museum on the way back here…
I had to zink back to Fårösund to buy some food for tonight as nothing is open on the island….  Well, there is nowhere to buy food and those places that might sell ice-cream are even shut…. It was only 8km and no wind and I managed to join the end of the queue as they were boarding the ferry! 
Grabbed some stuff for tea – haloumi, peas, baby potatoes (unwashed and just yanked from their mother’s roots!) an onion, a couple of tomatoes and a small capsicum – real food for a change!  Oh and a Gotlands Bryggeri – Best Bitter – Sleeping Bulldog – 3.5% beer (bought at the supermarket).  So all should be well for tonight.


weird fluffy flowers by the sea side






my little stuga

Breakfast at Elsie's cafe

Inside Elsie's cafe

one of the animal shelters I considered camping in on my first night



old old stone walls

a windmill of course



and another one....

Limestone stacks - they do look like old people





think this was a horse/bullock driven mill


group of fishermen's huts


fika!!


my bedroom

stairs to upper level

one bedroom

another one

with a view

down the narrow staircase

Front door

side view with tulips

cunning bathroom - but where is the shower?

Oh the wall moves to hide the toilet and there is the shower.
Making the most of little space!!!
Back to Visby tomorrow and maybe wifi – though nothing is going to beat this stuga!  Just love it!

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