Friday, 4 July 2014

Day 6 - 4/7 Demino to Uste'e

The day dawned with mist in the pines, promising a beautiful day ahead.  As the internet was still working I tried uploading as many photos onto my blog – I do hope that you appreciate my dedication J
After a substantial cafeteria style breakfast – porridge, omelette and rye bread and cheese - we packed up all our gear, dropped our bags off at Andrey’s truck then walked on over to the cabins where our bikes were stored.  I managed to find the time to move the cleat again, this time move back and thankfully I think that I have solved my shoe problem – yay!!

The sun was shining, birds were singing, blue skies, gentle wind – we have been so lucky with the weather.  The road was mostly in good condition thru the forest country with only a few small villages to ride through.  It is evident that once this land was farmed but still no planted crops at all.  Dmitry1 said that maybe they will make hay – but only an occasional cow or two have been seen tethered in amongst the long grass.  Maybe the villagers can sell the hay to other farmers – we did see some beef cattle in yards yesterday. 
We had a stop after about 10 km, but we weren’t ready to eat and could see onion domes just down the road, so most of us rode down to the church.  There was a large cemetery, each plot fenced and silk flowers aplenty adorning the graves.  The headstones had photos of the dearly departed – some even had the image engraved onto the head stone.  The church itself was in ruins, but the locals were very busy tending their grave sites.  The stingy nettles had all been cut back, so maybe there is a special service coming up on the weekend and the villagers were getting things in order. (ps found out that on Monday would be a celebration similar to 'Day of the Dead' when ancestors are honoured).




We rode into the small town of Tutaev towards a museum that is supposed to tell the history of the region.

Unfortunately it was “closed for renovations” – this being the 3rd year in a row that it’s been closed for the same reason.  Vladimir wondered if it would ever open, but they keep trying.  We had some time to kill as our cabins weren’t available until 5pm, so we were allowed to roam around town.  We went down to the Volga again, but not to swim this time and found a church on its bank!  Surprise!  So we went down to have a look. So many of these very old Orthodox churches are in such bad states after the Soviet era and locals are trying to find funds to restore some.

We rode over to another bit flasher cathedral, an active one.   Inside we found an art student (from Germany) who is studying art at St Petersburg University.  His vacation job was to carefully copy the frescoes that remained on the walls.  He had scaffolding up near wall so he could get a close up view of what he was painting.  He was a bit surprised to be suddenly inundated by a mob of sticky-beak tourists.  This church, tho almost falling down, is actually an active church and we females were asked to leave our helmets on so that our hair would be covered.  


The one remaining Icon in this church - there was a donation box nearby so ditched some of the change in my purse



We went back to the town centre and were able to poke around the little market square. 
No horse-drawn carts around here anymore!
There was a supermarket to check out, so in we all went looking for some alcohol and other nibbles.  I amaze myself (preach preach) that I don’t feel the need to buy chocolate, ice-creams or pastries as in the past!  But found a bag of pistachios!  And bought 2 bottles of beer.  So I was right for the night!
I buy things because of their labels, but this was pretty OK beer
Bought a belly-full of cherries which were really tasty.  Then I realised that that long, stern building, with people standing outside the doors, were actually little shops – they looked more like farm sheds!  – so I went into each one for a squiz.  There were about 3 or 4 little grocery stores – not self-serve, selling dried fish, salamis, breads and pastries, vodka and other bibs and bobs.  There was a haberdashery with some interesting hankies and scarves and also children flimsy story books and toys, so I bought a couple of them.  I went into one shop but it was more like an “emporium” with 2 little shops on the ground floor.  As I was poking around in one, which stocked trinkets and clothing, the guy that had been hanging around the front came up and made a sign to ‘come, come!’  I looked a bit doubtful, but followed him up the stairs thinking I do have my good strong riding shoes that could deliver a nice shin kick if need be (who am I kidding!) but no, there were just more shops there.  One was a silk and plastic florist!!  But I felt sorry for the lady, she was very friendly in a reserved sort of way, so I bought a magnet from her.  Then as I made my way back down the stairs, I saw another tinier shop selling woollen yarns, so I had better check that out.  There was the cutest ‘tomboy stitch’ stick, I couldn’t resist.  I will give that to Erica one day when she gets older – and teach her.  But it comes with directions even!  So I bought some red and white cotton (should have bought some blue too!) and I might get it started along the way.

But ever eastwards – and just a wonderful ride today.  Only approx total 65km – didn’t check the bike computer before coming inside – and only one hairy bit with a truck being a bit reluctant to give me my metre…  well, this is not Queensland!  Clouds were building up throughout the day, but nothing really threatening and the air was still cool but the sun shone strongly.  It is a strange experience to have hot sun and cool air, but that makes for beautiful bike riding weather.
At the turn off to the village where our cabin is located, we stopped for a quick snack.  On a couple of occasions other people have stopped, thinking that something is being sold from the back of the truck – maybe mushrooms or berries perhaps!  And again there was one person tricked into thinking that he was being beaten to some bargain!  Dmitry2 went into the edge of the forest and started picking handfuls of smultron, quite large ones, so I ducked down there and found a good taste of the little ripe very tasty fruit.

Then off down a small village track, which as we approached the village, disintegrated into a sandy path.  We stopped at the local well and Vladimir and Timothy chucked the bucket down and wound the handle to draw really sweet clean cold water. 




Then we headed down thru the village to the newish cabins built side by side.  Once again, Julie and I shared a room, just outside the kitchen and loo – so pretty handy generally. 
But first another swim in the Volga was on the list.  Cindy, Dee, Sigrid and me, changed into our bathers and headed off along the path – a 10 min walk along the two wheel track, which is called a street here.  Didn’t take my camera for some reason!  Oh well.  We eventually found the path leading down to the beach and gingerly waded into the algae fringed edge of the river.  Gad it was cold and dirty looking, but we soldiered on.  Cindy gave up fairly quickly, but Dee and I followed Sigrid in.  I was seriously thinking of quitting, but continued onwards and was next to go under the water.  Dee stayed for a little while, but by then I had been swimming around and was getting used to the water temperature.  Am definitely swimming in Kullsjarn this year…
Back to cabins, shower, crack open a beer and help prepare the meal – this time chopping up large amount of capsicums and onions and cheese of course, all for a big vegie stew to go with rice  with tinned meat – thankfully some rice was saved out for me.  With some bread and cheese, followed by pretty good, but not the best apricots, made for a hearty meal including a toast in Crimean vodka!
Tonight Dimitreov 2 showed us a film of the Cultural tour of 2013, followed by a film of the 2008 literature tour visiting the estates of various famous Russian authors. 
And so to bed – after down loading gopro films, camera card and finishing this blog – gad too many toys!  Goodnight.
Maybe tomorrow at the hotel I will be able upload via internet!
This is a nifty little water container that Andrey has on his truck
You push up the toggle underneath and out comes the water :)

2 comments:

  1. We want piccies! We want piccies! Sounds like a wonderful leg of the journey. What you wrote about the little shops that didn't look like a shop is the same in Italy. It took me quite a while to realise I could go in.

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  2. Ooooerrrrr, piccies added! Some lovely buildings and scenery. But I can't understand how the water toggle thingy works ...

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