Day 1 - Bologoe to Valday - heading towards St Petersburg

What a beautiful day to start another tour - cool air almost need a jacket, but I am tough! - sun shining and birds tweeting and at last!!  out of towns and city and back into the forest!  the rest of the group seemed to want to toddle along and talk, so I took the lead, switched on gopro as there was no one in front and glorified in the beautiful forests of pine and birch again.  the road was good, the wind wafted around but was mainly from behind - a great strong pedal out on the open road again!  there was probably a little more traffic than I usually like, especially trucks trucks and more b.... trucks, but apart from a few narrow shaves all was well in the world.

we'd been told that there are not that many churches around in this area and this may in fact be a new one for a small local village.

this region is well-known (apparently) for its rivers, lakes and forests.  the countryside did start to feel a little more Finnish in some ways - and lakes could often be glimpsed through the forests.  This little creek was quite pretty and I couldn't resist a stop for a photo!

Andrey had our lunch stop all organised - down past a church to a swimming spot.  When we arrived a local lad suggested we follow him to a special place down past the church.

one bright red poppy flowering outside the church

 it was a natural spring with very clear water - apparently it was 18' deep and from the tiny pontoon, one could look down into the very clear crisp water.  its the locals water supply, but we were all a tad sceptical to try it - for some strange reason !  It was a really pretty spot tho and a local old guy had a big conversation with the Russians - but we never did find out what he was talking about.

the actual spring

The local lad then told us that he was off to be cleansed in the pool further along the boardwalk, so we followed along.  

We came to a small chapel built next to this very clear and cold pool.  We opted out having a swim as it was obviously quite a religious experience to bathe in this water.  The lad (he was probably 30ish) dived in on the left and came out straight away on the right.  apparently he had to do that 4 times to be properly cleansed.

There was a boarded fence and we could hear women behind it - they were changing into these 'nightie' sort of dresses.  There was no diving in for these girls.  They solemnly walked down the steps on the left and just submerged themselves in the water - genuflecting many times (maybe 4??)  it appeared to be very cold and their friend who wasn't going in, seemed to be quite amused and not taking things too seriously!  

on the wall of the chapel

The Church with bell tower attached

The priest came out and blessed one lady sitting and waiting patiently

 So, back on the road again - Road???  rather a washboard of mega size!  a little bit of sealed road, but mainly hard, rocky, corrugated, broken road and Dang!!  - just to add to the mix, a taste of Finnish Hills - damn them, they're everywhere!  Up and down, up and down - but no flying down:  its brakes locked on, banging over rocks and holes.  On one of the downs, I hadn't really slowed down enough and Maggie and me took a hammering, me out of the saddle and Maggie dancing around - my mind flew to Mulga Bill's bicycle and fully understood how he felt!  bit sheepish, because if I had come off, it would have all be my fault - but we made it safely to the bottom and on we went - I did beg forgiveness from Maggie and she said - No Worries!!

Another food break - Andrey is looking after us so well!  Thanks!!!!

The mossies were a bit friendly at this stop and there wasn't many blueberries left!  later saw two people walking along with a bucket full to the top of blue berries - ya just gotta be quick!

so on we pedalled, slowly dodging the worst of the road until it started to improve back to a real road again.  The region we were in is much favoured by the glorious leader - Vladimir Putin!!  but he stays in a very secure place, so we haven't seen him at all.  Timothy said that there have been conferences here, so we expect good roads for awhile now.

 Our last detour for the day was into a rather glamorous monastery - it gold domes sparkled across the lake awhile back.  We opted to do the extra 8km into this place and swooped down the real road towards it.  All along the waters edge were campers with tents set up in amongst the pine trees.  There didn't look like any formal camping ground, probably each have their own special camping spot and they make sure they are there early.  It had a very friendly, happy feel to the place.  

Just along a bit, we came to a large parking lot with buses and cars, all here to visit the monastery - as we were.

a bridal party arrived for pics - I don't think the wedding service was here, tho

 From a doorway into the outer court yard, we followed the path into the inner circle.  the gardens were well maintained, lawns mowed and there was an air of prosperity in this monastery - I wondered how it had miraculously escaped the Soviet crackdown...  who knows!

through the archway - should I make a wish? - lead us into the grounds of the main church.  Now I believe that golden (and maybe silver too) mean that this church was built for God - not just your ordinary saint or Virgin Mary!

Already we were looking a bit out of place - no scarves on our head and no skirts wrapped around us as all the other woman and small girls were... it somewhat irks my atheistic mind - that women have to be covered up to quell any temptations of the sinful body, while the men just stroll around in whatever...  generally I don't have a problem, but this place was just a tad pretentious.....   

 A building on the side had such beautiful window surrounds - not wood but painted plaster (I think)  definitely worth another look.

beautiful frescoes as usual

 Well OK - I won't go all the way into the church, but I went in as far as the main room and snuck in a few photos.  I didn't feel any animosity from people, tho one could sense they were a tad shocked at our appearance...

super flash candelabra!

back through the arches to get back into the real world.  and back on our bikes again and riding up the road - literally- to the main road.  OK - this is the main road into the town of Valday - pop 11,000 so we bunched up and rode in single file along a very well maintained shoulder - thank god!

Timothy led us off into the suburbs, over the railway track after a rather long goods train went past, carrying oil and other stock carriages and down to our rather nice hotel right on the lakes edge.  Again, no swimming - the wind ruffling the surface had a bite to it and after clocking up 97km for the day, we were all ready to get to our rooms and have a good clean up.  

we were allocated our rooms and after Julie had showered I ran a tub full of nice hot water and soaked away the day's aches and pains.  also got some washing done, so all is well with our tiny world of cycling through the back blocks of Russia!