Day 11 - to Sundborn - Carl Larsson Country

Thought you might like to start off with some examples of 1950's luxury that are popular in this part of the world :)

not sure if this windscreen would pass rego!

who knows but....

Wicked :)

but then i do like red cars :)

 these were in the parking lot - travellers also - but in style

Leksand church - still locked when I was leaving

Bell tower - quite impressive

nice old rock wall around the church

old buildings in Open Air Museum

The midsummer pole still standing

no - not torture implements - unless you're a piece of dough at Leksand Bakeri

the ball on its way to freedom - or not!

another beautiful lake!

Canadian geese visiting Falun

Getting close to Larsson country now!  hmmm, would it fit in my panniers?

swimming spot 

Gravesite for Carl and Karin Larsson

Sundborn church, wooden shingles as is bell tower

Lena in her Tavern

The Bar

all that remains of an 8kg pike

The Barn - or pub & tavern

B&B - Swedish style

beer tasting room

happy with the choice of sherry :)

my balcony

good Golden Ale 

The wind was still blowing when I woke this morning – ah well, one can’t control the weather.

So I made myself breakfast, washed all the dishes, wiped everything down, cleaned the toilet and hand basin – looked for a vacuum cleaner but none was around – nor anyone to ask.  When I took the rubbish to the bins, I see a small brush and pan, so take that to sweep the room.  My bags all packed, beds made – that’s it….  I think they can earn some of their rather expensive charge…

I loaded Maggie and away we went.  Trouble with these small Swedish towns is that their blocks are so tiny – already I am at the wrong end of town and I thought that I had only travelled a few hundred metres.  Oh Well!  Back we go.  I might just send a Birthday greeting to a small lad who turns 1 today – Happy Birthday Jack – also to Morfar too!

So over the river and off down a small street to drop in and visit the Leksand bakery.  Not that I have any room for crispbread, especially their big rounds but it was more a nostalgia visit, following the visit in 2008.  I also bought a coffee to have with the remaining bread bun from tea – then toot toot!  We are on our way. 

Now – what a difference a wind makes – when it’s not blasting you in the face.  I was heading more easterly now and although the wind wasn’t always behind me, it was more from behind than in ya face.  So we went rolling away, first to Insjön.  I had planned to stay there last night, but had got puffed out and ended up in Leksand.  Now where to next – and then I saw a shop called Väveri (I think that’s right) – well I know väv is weaving, so this deserves a stop and a check out.  There were some nice Swedish style serviettes that I Must Have – and on Rea (sale) and there was also some very nice tapes in there – just right for decorating a real Svensk folk costume – I know someone who needs one of thoseJ  and I also got some directions on how to get to Falun not via motorway!

It was a really nice day riding again.  Up a lot and not enough down – how does that work?  But still really pretty country.  Some farming but it was more lakes and summer cottages.  At several of the lakes there were family groups sunbathing and swimming in the lake.  I stopped at one lake for lunch and while sitting there I noticed a beach ball floating out and away from the group.  The father saw it, but was also playing with his little son, so it can go.  But once it got level with me, the wind caught and blew it in right to my feet.  So, as I am still trying to replenish my karma bank (it was severely raided in Moscow and the bluddy Metro!) I took it back to the family and received some big smiles all round.  Sweet!

On I rode till eventually I came to Smedsbo and I turned left and just a little way noticed a nice sealed and wide bike way heading the right direction, so I thought I would try it out – see how far it goes.  Well, I reckon it went about 10km, right into Falun!  That’s nice!  But I didn’t get a good vibe in Falun…  why is that?  Who knows?  So I decided to try and find the Info centre and see if there was a bed available out in Sundborn.  With a little help from a passer-by I managed to find the centre – after struggling with Maggie up 3 levels of stairs.  Yes, there was a narrow ramp with steps next to it, but Maggie and her load weren’t meant for steps like that.  But we made it and eventually found the Info centre. 

The kind girl at reception called the SF Vandrahem in Sundborn (backpackers lodge ie) but they were full up. " Let me check if there is a B&B there."  Why yes there is!  And Yes they do have an available room tonight only.  Suits me!  So a new map and its as confusing as the others, when it comes to finding bike alternatives, so I head off in the right direction this time and find the bikeway closed!  Well, dang it – there’s always a good shoulder on a motorway and it’s not far to the Sundborn turn off, so away we go.  There was no sign saying No Cycles – so all was good and it wasn’t much different than riding along Logan road, but with less traffic so all good.  Soon I was heading off on the road to Sundborn.

So – why Sundborn?  Well, for many years we have been receiving beautiful calendars with paintings by Carl Larsson - a Swedish artist in the late 19–early 20^th Century.  He captures the idyllic lifestyle of the Swedish genteel folk – and I truly love the feeling of peace and harmony that are projected from these paintings.  So Sundborn was their family home and many of his paintings are of his family enjoying picnics by the lakes and interiors of their home.  His wife Karin, was also an artist, but after marriage, used her artistic flair for interior decorating their home with beautiful textiles etc.  and their home is now a museum in Sundborn and that explains it all.

Alongside the road into Sundborn are huge panels of sections of his paintings.  I can’t imagine how they aren’t stolen each night!!  I did take a good look to see how they were arranged and I reckon if you could cut one rope it would all unravel….  But Maggie is already overloaded, so maybe not this time J

Yes there were more hills today and a bit of traffic and a city – but there were beautiful lakes, not so many rivers, pretty little cottages and a feeling of all is well in the world (amazing how one can forget about the real horrors happening elsewhere).

So Lars had told me on the phone to look for a yellow house with a yellow fence on the way to the church.  It has a B&B sign out the front – which is just as well, as the house opposite also fits the description.

Lars and Lena welcomed me into their home – a typical Swedish timber home, upstairs and downstairs and as I found out later – a cellar as well.  They were a little rushed as they are leaving for Copenhagen tomorrow, but Lena showed me to my room and explained the bibs and bobs regarding breakfast and help-yourself to whatever… so fresh towels, a bed with all the line required, a fan whirring away to cool off the room – all for half the price of last night’s.  Yep, I was happy as.

After a quick shower to wash away the sweaty smells – I donned my bathers and dress (!!) and pedalled down to the lake for a swim!  I am sure Carl Larsson and his family picnicked here by the church….  Well, his and Karin and some of their family, lies quietly in the cemetery.  It was quite magical and the water temperature was around 24C and very very pleasant.  And Very shallow, I kept bumping into largish rocks, but it felt so good to cool right down. 

Then, back to the corner shop to buy something for dinner.  There was a pizzeria but I didn’t feel like pizza tonight, so just bought a pasta salad and (shock horror) an apple doughnut.  It was quite nice :)

I tried out the bed and had an hour’s snooze then thought I should do something… but then Lena came upstairs to see if I would like a look around.  There had been talk of a beer tasting evenings here.  So she took me to this non-descript little shed in the backyard and opened the door to this very small bar – absolutely loaded with every sort of beer imaginable!  And I could help myself to the fridge – 50kr for any beer.  The Lena turned on the light and in the next section was a small ‘tavern’ room.  They have evenings there, especially midsummer, where they take out the tables and dance on the ‘new’ wooden floor.  There was a nautical theme to the room because Lena is from Göteborg on the west coast. 

We went for a small walk in the garden, picked a couple of raspberries (but they are sooo small this year) but very tasty then we went down into Lars’ domain – the cellar under the house.  It used to be the potato cellar and also housed the well – maybe a spring – that used to supply the whole village.  (The house is about 100yrs old).  Lars collects mainly beers from all over the world.  He big thing is finding the best and exploring the different tastes of beers from many boutique breweries from all around the world.  Sadly he didn’t know of any Australian beers, but did have one from NZ…  hmmm…. Now that smarts!

Here they have ‘tasting’ evenings where you start with 3 beers and you keep the one you like the best and either drink or tip out the other 2.  Then you get 2 more to compare with your first chosen beer  - and so on, until after 9 choices you have made a decision on which one you like most.  Then you move into another smaller room (used to be the junk room) where Lars has his collection of spirits and wines from all over the world again.  He joined us to talk about why he likes to collect these things and a little bit about the history of some of these treasures.  He asked me if I would like to taste something and I admitted – as apparently many people do – that I am not a drinker of spirits.  But he thought I would like this sherry – and might I admit he was totally correct.  It was a Spanish one that just tasted like really ripe raisins – and no pips!  Smooooooth!!!  Oh yes!  I could really enjoy a small glass after riding home in the winter and needing something to cheer me up.  Apparently the barrels that this sherry is brewed in is very popular for (gad…. Can I remember?) aging whiskey in – I think that is right – or was it beer?  Whiskey sounds probable, but these micro beer breweries are doing lots of marvellous things these days!  Anyways!  Might I just reiterate – that Sherry was damn Fine!

So now to bed.  It is already getting dark (after 11pm) there is no wifi or phone coverage, so hopefully no one is panicking about Granny on her bike – because she is nicely chilled out on my -own little balcony – an empty bottle of Oppigårds – Golden Ale, brewed in Dalarna – which is where I am!

Goodnight!!!

Day 10 – Riding to Leksand

Oh Lord, won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz - oh yeah!!  

we made it  - some of the way anyways :)

Mora's kyrke

Gold encrusted pulpit

gold encrusted bas relief - Last Supper

looking back to Mora

looks windy upstairs, what can that mean?

Locals swimming spot

Ragaman!

Russian influences maybe?

Welcome to Leksand

Kettle impression - in middle of Leksand

Midsummer pole - hard to get a clear perspective on the size of this...

only one on this church....

With only a 65km trip ahead of me today – I was a bit slow to get going!  Good breakfast as always in these Swedish hotels. 

Eventually Maggie and I headed off to finish post of the Vasaloppet – to update my photo from 2008.  This time Maggie had the starring role!  The church was open so we ducked in there for a quick look.  These Lutheran churches are much different that the Russian Orthodox.  For one, they haven’t been outlawed for nearly 70-80 years.  For another, they are in a wealthy country and it still appears that the rich keep trying to buy their way upstairs…  This church had a fair bit of gilt plastered around the place – on bas-relief pictures at the altar and around the pulpit.  The brass lamps glowed and the pipe organ had lots of pipes!  So all was well in Mora.

Maybe the Zorn Museet might be open to.  Anders Zorn is a very well-know Swedish artist and apparently he lived around here – anyways, he is buried in the church yard…  I do like his art, but it has a much heavier hand that Carl Larsson – tho they may have been practising at the same time.  But I was here to have a quick peek at the Rembrandt etchings.  Some looked familiar, so I think they were in the exhibition in Brisbane.  Most were really tiny and there were magnifying glasses next to the etching – but I didn’t really have time to get that close to them.  His famous etching – Self-portrait leaning on a stone still - was there, so that was good to see the actual, which is normally just in a book.

But let’s get this show on the ride.  I decided to ride along the western side of Siljan – the large lake spreads between Mora and Leksand and the main road is on the eastern side.  But I think I may have not have made the best decision.  I think it would have been possible to ride on smaller roads on the east.  But anyways, off we go…  we zinked onto the island,  Sollerön and I thought that maybe just behind the supermarket there would be access to the lakeside for a quiet lunch.  But I was wrong.  I followed a nice little road that looped around thru little farm villages, but where was the lake? 

Eventually the road got smaller and turned into a dirt road…  OK – lost again.  I asked a gentleman in his front yard and he advised me that it was just down around the corner and that it was very nice.  So, onwards and yes – here was a pontoon with a couple of women sunbathing.  So this is where the locals come!  I cleared a space on the sand and made myself some lunch.  Well that was an extra 5km I hadn’t planned on. 

On the way back, I took a left which brought me back to the main road and soon over the causeway back onto the mainland again.  There was a sign that there might be otters in the lake there, but try as I might, no otters were seen.  After Gesunda, the road got a tad boring…  Pine forest only and hardly any piping birds.  I had expected lake-side vistas, but it was hidden by the forest.  The wind kicked in now, mostly from the front and in some places it really channelled down the road, which quickly turns me in Cranky Chris!  So it was just pedalling along and not much to break it up.  There was an occasional summer cottage on the side of the road, but the traffic was fairly constant – coming in twos and threes – an occasional truck.  There were a couple of “Russian” drivers cutting back a tad too soon, so not my best day of riding.  But I guess that is what happens when you’re out pedalling along the road.  They can’t all be days like yesterday.

There was a big climb into Siljansnäs, which I was sure I couldn’t make, but head down and granny gear got us to the top!  I didn’t turn into the township as it was up again, so kept on around the corner to a nice parking space right by a causeway, so after that hill I needed a stop to recharge my batteries.  The wind was really ripping over the lake and flapping blue and gold pennants.  I decided that I would just get to Leksand and call it quits for the day, so into the saddle again and dash across the narrow bridge before there was any cars that wanted more than their share or the road.

As I was grinding up another hill, a car patiently waited behind me before there was a safe overtaking space.  The passenger waved at me and after a few puffs, I was able to wave back, to get another way from the driver too.  I think they might have been cyclists too and probably had ridden this road too.  It’s part of the cycle way – Siljan Runt – which just means Around Siljan…

Soon I was puffing up the last hill for the day, into Leksand.  There was a really nice ‘folk art’ centre-piece on the main roundabout and I turned towards the Centrum and found the Info bureau.  The very kind attendant, Stina tracked down a room for me and we booked it immediately.  The three hotels were either full or only their Suites were available…  so I have ended up in Paraden – a old house renovated into self-contained holiday units. It is very basic, but will do.  I think it’s a bit inflated tho – there is no old-world charm here – that’s all gone.  Ikea furniture of course, but nothing supplied – no linen, towels or liquid soap.  And you have to clean up after yourself, wipe, vacuum and mop or pay another $40 which would make it as expensive as the hotel room in Mora – only without the breakfast and linen or Balcony!  As this unit is right on ground level, I didn’t feel that safe with the main windows open, but there were smaller ones up high, but still the room was quite hot and stuffy.  

But after a long shower and my clothes washed, I went for a walk down town.  Found a supermarket and bought some food for an evening meal and also for breakfast and a bit more for lunch and wandered back to the room.  I found an arena – am guessing ice-hockey – a couple of churches and The Church – complete with an onion dome??  I will have a closer look at that on the way out of town tomorrow.  There was also an open air museum, but I was ready to get back to the room by now.  On the other side of the road was a natural formation, called a kettle (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_(landform) – caused by a large area of ice that had been trapped under some ground during the end of the Ice Age.   Since 1939 it’s been used for the midsummer festival and the raising of the Midsummer Pole and it also serves as a great open air auditorium…  it was hard to get the size of it in a photo.  I was impressed anyways!

So back to my room – make some food, watched a bit of Swedish TV whilst down-loading gopro, photos and gps route.  Never ending hey!  Another thing to gripe about this place, was the lack of wifi..  surely in this day and age and the profit made here, they could manage that….

Oh well, it’s been a magic trip so far and I won’t let a day with head wind make me cranky for too long….  Besides there’s nothing to kick that won’t either break or hurt – so get over it J

Day 9 - Vasaloppet - summertime style

fixed - for tonight!

cosy but comfy room

blue skies in the morning

Vasaloppet starting line - looking a tad empty in summer time

another beautiful lake (or dam really)

at last!!  a sign post with bikes again!

Comfort stop

Vasaloppet bike way

not toooo bad

but Maggie says "Nooooooo!!!!"

is this the right way d'ya think?

I love these fences

My wet footprints - :)

Oxberg shingle church

Inlandbanan - memories of 2008  :)

Mora & Lake Siljan from my balcony :)

Dalahast on watch

Oh Happy Days

or not so happy, getting a tow

very welcome :)

There goes another one!!!

Palak Paneer - Swedish version - yummo also

but wait!!  - there's more

Bike town - lets go shopping

and racks everywhere :)

Really nice ride again today - up in the 90kms - not sure if made it to  -95 forgot to check when I left Maggie nicely locked in the secure garage downstairs.  

The girl in 7:an where I stayed last night, assured me that I should take this road to Mora and to ride the Vasaloppet bikeway - its beautiful she said.  

so off I go and just out of Salen, there is the beginning post for The Vasaloppet - check it out on line - its the world's biggest cross country skiing event.  well, its summer and no snow (thankfully) but there is a bike way that goes sorta in the same direction so lets check it out.

the first 3km is sealed road, which helps as its a steady never-ending climb up out of the Valley....  am I sure I have done the right thing? once we get to the top, we find a nice little dam - all still with lots of reflections.

then a little green sign appears and points towards a dirt track - Vasaloppet bike way...  OK - so memories of riding in Russia are immediately stirred, but this is a little track, not a secondary road.  and it was in a bit better condition than some in Russia.  Maggie and me settled into shuddering along at a rather reduced speed, then another turn up a road that was Hell to a fully laden bike like Maggie.  it was thick loose gravel and no way to ride along it - so off I got and pushed Maggie up the hill.  no way of riding down as the large gravel is pinging off in all directions.  at about this point, the cyclist sign disappeared and only the hiking sign appeared now and then...  So, did I miss a turn off?  am I already lost?  too far and too rough to turn back so pedal on.  after about 4km the biking sign appears again as if it had never been away!!  hmmmm...  i should have waited another 15mins till the bureau open at the start point and got a details map.  

suddenly we are back on a major road!  did I turn left at Albuquerque????  suddenly there were cars and trucks - but a good road.  hmmmm compromise here.  anyways, at this stage the bike way does follow along the road, so away we went.  We soon came to another track leading into the bush, but no sign post...  but wait a minute - there it is, pulled up and thrown into the bushes.   I retrieve it, but does it point this way or that way.  wherever we are going its 10km away...  oh well, its taken me nearly 3 hours to get 30km, so this speed is not going to get me to Mora, so i make the big decision, to just ride along the road.

Once I headed off, I soon got used to the traffic and realised that usually there wasn't too much.  a few fully-laden logging trucks were a bit scary, but generally the traffic, as always, didn't threaten me.

In Russia, the question often was - do I stop and photo this beautiful church?  here in Scandinavia, its - do I stop and photo this beautiful lake, river, or farm scenery.  its all beautiful and I forgot to add, forests!!!  this ride had the lot!  and no big climbs, just ups and downs in a gentle sort of way. 

it felt good to have done some of the Vasaloppet, but when I got to Risberg and saw a detailed map of where the bike way goes, I could see that it was adding quite a few kms to my day, so was pleased i took the easy option.

I took a dip in one of the lakes - it was at Oxberg.  I wasn't that hot, but it was time for a break and I followed a little track down to a rest area and the water looked rather nice.  and no one around.  so off came the socks and shoes and my trusty Russian Touring Cycle club shirt and in I wade - thought my seat could do with a cool off....  there was a water temp guage hanging on the pontoon, so I checked - 24C  nice bathing temp.  it was quite shallow where I was, which was good, so I paddled around, then climbed out and had a nut snack and a big drink of water and away we went.

Just up the way was the Oxberg Dala Clog factory.  I had been told about this - as this is one of the places that make the soooooo Swedish clogs and I had decided that this year I was going to buy myself a pair.  so in I go...  once I started talking English, the lady in the shop answers me back with a yankee accent.  she had lived in USA for 20 years but was happily back in Sweden.  Her partner was the guy making the clogs and then she adds some of the traditional folk art onto them.  so Yes please, bright red pair please - cos red goes faster and its also Erica's favourite colour - mine too :)  so hopefully they will be ready and posted to Orebro before I leave...  as promised.

by now, I am only 30km from Mora - the thunderclouds are building up as they have been each day - a bit rumbling, so onya bike!  and get pedalling.

the last stretch of the road was really quite traffic wise as most zink out to Highway 70, so the locals and me enjoyed a very nice ride into Mora.

I came across a little railway line heading north!!  this much be the Inlandbanan track - Emma, Michael & me took this ride in 2008.  little did I ever imagine that 6 years later I would be riding my bike along it!!  wow!

so I rolled into Mora via the back door and eventually found the centre and a rather flash hotel - Best Western.  hmmm.... they only have the Suites left - $285 for one night....  yeah?  so is there another hotel close by - just around the corner she said, so around we went and found the Hotel Silja.  the guy on the desk assured me that indeed they had a room for the night - this time $160 - now that's more like it...  and its got a balcony looking over to Lake Silja - very nice it is too.  

so another few miles under Maggie's tyres - they are standing up to it all, very well...  my butt appreciates a proper chair in the evening, but generally - all is good touring through beautiful Sweden!  don't see too many tourers around - not sure why, because it is quite beautiful....