Day 8: To Rovaniemi – by train.



Hermanni Hostel, Kuopio

 After a good sleep, we were ready for another day.  Emma sent us a text and we set up a Skype session - just before we were leaving.  We made use of the kitchen facilities and had our breakfast of muesli and bread and cheese.

All packed up and ready to leave the Hostel Hermanni

It was great to get to talk with Em & M and MissE – tho she soon got tired of us prattling on. 




So we packed up and rode back to the train station, bought the tickets for our bikes and decided to catch the express train which was leaving at 10:43 instead of the Intercity train leaving at 12:47.  The later train had 2 transfers which are such a hassle with the bikes and arriving 2 hours later, so express it is.

Busy Kuopio streets on a Sunday morning

It is the Railway Station only in Finnish.....

We rode to the church and photographed around the outside and I ducked inside for a quick gander.  It was a bit disappointingly bland inside.  Modern lamps, no stained glass – just plain white wall, which contrasted with the beautiful old stone work on the outside. 

They do look after their cemeteries here

Squirrel on patrol - oops, someone else's tree!

Then back towards the train station where we checked out the old cemetery nearby.  It was really quite beautiful in there, tall sombre pine trees and lots of tidy gravesites covered with bright annuals.  Karina spotted a squirrel and we followed it up and got some photos (maybe not so good) of it racing around as squirrels do. 

Looks like an interesting road to ride

Safely out of range of other squirrel now

And so to the train station.  It wasn’t a modern variety, so no wi-fi or powerpoints but it rocketed along only stopping now and then at the major towns along the way.  Forests and farmlands for scenery – no wildlife so far!


Quick getaway

Birch trees outside, Karina playing Suduko on phone inside

Karl Fazer Chocolate rules!!




We both managed to have little catnaps along the way – but sitting on a train with the scenery just flashing by is quite tiring.  

or eating Suku Laku - yummo!

We were a tad late getting into Rovaniemi, but we loaded up the bikes and headed out to the Santa Claus Village.  It seemed to be uphill all the way – not steep, but never-ending.  But eventually we made it to the top and found the village – well you can’t miss some things!! 







So now we are in Santa Claus land



And the Mossie say Welcome too - in hoards!

Cabin 7 - very cute!

The main reasons for travelling to Rovaniemi were: to visit Karina’s roots – her father was born here before migrating to Sweden at the age of 2.  The other reason was that the Arctic Circle cuts through the Santa Claus village where we stayed and that’s pretty far north!!

Will the bikes be able to rest in this
midnight sun?

Our little cabin – No7 – was so cute – red curtains, xmas candles and reindeer antler chandeliers – hopefully I remembered to photo them!!  There were white murals of pine trees and reindeer on the walls which lit up beautifully when the lights were turned on.  And our very one personal sauna!  But no time for any of that – the kitchen closed at 8:30 and already it was 8:15, so dash back for tucker!

Pretty damn fine
hot chocolate

Nice tall Finnish beer

Karina is doing a good job of chowing thru the reindeer population – reindeer burger this time while I stuck with what I know – vegie pasta!  which was damn tasty.  We tried dessert also – blueberry cake and Sami hot cheese dessert with cloudberry jam – very yummy, sorta haloumi, but not salty and a bit more melted but still chewy!!  (not sure why I forgot to take photos of the food - maybe too hungry??) Yes we will use all those calories – one day surely J

Facebooking in the midnight sun!

Here is Santa's Village - Welcome!

Found there was no laundry facilities and a quick google search came up with the info that this is a major issue in Rovaniemi – no coin laundries at all – and other laundry places don’t do same day delivery!  Gad – we have no clean clothes so a quick wash of some essentials is required.

Sauna in en suite - good for drying
a few clothes

The Artic Circle crosses Here!

By the time we got back to our room, blogged and emailed a bit it was time for a quick shower, a sit in the sauna – temp 70C!! – especially gasping when water is splashed onto the hot rocks.  Townsville is not hot enough for training, tho KK thought that riding in the summer time and stopping at the traffic lights is sorta familiar!!



On the Artic Circle line

Can you see?  It is just after midnight!

We then took a walk around the Village.  All the shops were closed and all the tourists were tucked in their cabins or in their motor homes, so we had the place to ourselves.  Actually I don’t think its that busy during summer – it appeared to be a good time to be building more cabins and generally doing lots of maintenance.  We could see that the sun was shining behind the bank of clouds on the horizon, so we couldn’t actually see the midnight sun, but it was still bright light – just like an overcast day.  We stood on the Arctic Circle line and thought about how far we were from home!!  Can’t get much further away, actually. 

So we strolled back to No 7 – closed the very thick curtains and hit the sack!  Another day gone!

Day 7: To Kuopio

We didn’t rush this morning –only about 40km to ride into Kuopio.  But we spent a heap of time trying to get Gary Garmin set up with some back tracks.  Eventually we loaded our bikes and headed off at around 11am. 

Bikeway into Kuopio - very nice!

We turned left and then right onto the dirt track, but it was totally loose sharp gravel again, freshly graded so I said no way!!!  Karina happily agreed, so we turned back and went the ‘normal’ way along the minor highway alongside the major one.  We had travelled only about 10km when we spotted a bike path on the other side, so we crossed over and were able to pedal along side by side and chat away.  It was mostly sunny and so a very pleasant ride. 

Looks like a nice place for Lunch:)

 As we approached the outskirts we spotted a huge Ikea complex, so we decided we would have lunch there!  I nearly didn’t get my foot out of the cleat when stopping at a pedestrian crossing – I was so close to taking a buster that I still break out in a sweat, thinking about it!  Karina had meatballs of course and I had the cheese pancakes – and we both had a kanelbulle – but it’s never as good as Ciri’s!

Rocky Finnish islands

So from there on, it was bike path all the way, touring through some smart new suburbs, along a series of bridges connecting small islands.  We had a chuckle when we overtook three young lads that had been strolling along.  They had glanced back just as we were approaching them, spotted Karina and started to jog – trying to impress these cool bike riders – they must have been a bit disappointed with the tail-ender!  But it was a downhill slope off the bridge, so we blitzed them!

This way brought us in close to our accommodation for the night – Hermanni Hostel - which we easily found – OK, thanks Gary!!  It was an old-style brick building, but clean and tidy – and a porch around the back where we could store our bikes for the night.  We collected the key, unloaded the bikes, then rode into the centre; checking out the train station and trying to find the harbour where the lake cruises leave from.  The centre of the city was being dug up, maybe to allow the traffic drive under the city streets – but at the moment it’s a nightmare to try and negotiate with a bike. 

Koski born 1898 still going strong!

We found the passenger harbour, but the evening cruise with meal was booked out, so we went on the 5pm cruise – which was getting ready to leave.  It was a cute old tub, built in 1898 (I think) but felt very stable.  





waiting for cider!

Finns doing what Finns like doing best!

We sat inside as it would have been totally freezing outside and we hadn’t brought our jackets. It was a bit of a shame that the sun had been covered by the clouds now, so it was all a bit dull and grey. But it was an interesting trip with a really Scandinavian feeling about the area – tiny islands with just room for a small cottage, a sauna and/or hot tub, pontoon with fancy speed boat tied up and generally people laying around relaxing on summer holidays. There was also the commercial side of town shown, water treatment place that is very environmentally energy efficient, a paper mill and a high-rise complex – I think government housing but the broadcast was really static. We sat back and relaxed and enjoyed the watery tour. But we could see it had started to rain also…  











 

Now that is more like my idea of heaven!

This where the rich people stay I think



 























 

How about owning your own island, speed boat included?



There goes the neighbourhood!

When we got back to port, we rode off up the main drag looking for a likely spot to stop.  There was one place with placards of Jacobs Creek – so we went into the restaurant.  It was a bit medieval-themed, with stained glass windows, some scenery and some art deco.  Karina went with the cider and I had a pale ale (our second drink for the day – we had cider on the boat) and Karina opted for a large steak while I had asparagus and ricotta tortellini (without the prawns!) It was really yummy and went down a treat!

So we pedalled back to the hostel, just as it was thinking about raining again.  We had time to do a bit of blogging, emailing and listening to other guests (Russians) singing and yacking away – with a couple of wild kids.  Thankfully by 11pm they were also tired, so things quietened down for us to get some sleep. 

Another great day with some easy riding, some ‘proper’ sightseeing and generally a good time.  Kuopio is a bit of a ‘new’ city – there were only a few old buildings – not really giving off vibes of ancient history like Savonlinna.  There was a wine festival happening down by the harbour, but we decided the mix of loud rock music and too much wine was not our scene.

Stats – 15avg 49.2 max 37:35 (635.7) 38.91km

Day 6: To Koivuranta

Our beds tucked in by the loom

Breakfast: porridge, strawberries, red currant juice, coffee, cheese, salami, hard boiled eggs, crispbread, rye bread, white bread, jam, sweet bread – Gad!   What more could one want? All delicious! 

Loom envy

We had such a great stay with Tarja - such a friendly host.   But we must move on, so the bikes were loaded up and we headed off along the unsealed road.  The first hill won, it was far too soon to be able to pedal to the top – but all was well after that.

Sealed road and sunshine - Noice!!

The sun was shining, birds were tweeting - it was a beautiful day!  We traced our way back to the turnoff then turned northwards continuing along an unsealed road, which was in pretty good shape.  More forest, flowers, farmlands and fåglar (birds)!  It is really so pretty – the wildflowers are still bloomin’ madly – and heaps of birch trees – my favourites!
We made it back to the sealed road, which allowed us to kick along a bit then we took a short cut on another unsealed road. The hills are still appearing more than we need, but we are getting better at them – I think.  They still hurt and I am very glad of my granny gear – which allows me to keep up with Karina – who is swearing about not having one!

The other side of the lake

Hurry up Mum!

Whilst having a roadside snack, we had a chat with a Finnish guy, who was riding to see friends, but was a bit lost.  He said that he had ridden 200km yesterday!!  Yeah, but he was travelling pretty light, small panniers and obviously a bit crazy!  He was going back the way we had come, so we gave him our map and some chocolate and he was off on his way again.

A ferry trip across a cold lake

 

Water Lilies too!

A Lake - nice place for lunch

We had a ride on a much bigger ferry today – there were only 4 cars and one motorbike travelling our way, but there was a long line up on the other side – think they were coming home from work or shopping in Kuopio as we aren’t that far as the car drives!
We had another 20km to go from the ferry and it was all sealed road, so it turned out to be a very pleasant ride all day!  

reflections

Walking along a Finnish path to a beautiful lake

The old school at Orinono Gorge

girl's toilet - a very long drop!

Gary Garmin brought right to the front door of Kivuranta and we signed in easily and were shown our room.  The lake lay glistening in the afternoon sun, just 20 metres from our door.  Very nice!  Showering was the first thing on our mind and we asked for an evening meal at 8pm, so didn’t have to rush.  The guy on reception seemed to be the only person around working.  He took our money for the room, cooked our meal and also for another couple and generally rushed around.

Bring on the Food!

Our meal (28€ total) of roasted pork, potatoes, eggplants, capsicum, tomatoes covered with a herby cream gravy plus tomatoes and cucumbers on the side – OK quite tasty and very filling – and as I had no choice in the serving, I just ate it up.
We went for a walk by the lake, but the mossies were chasing us inside, when we saw a little hedgehog, snuffling along.  We got quite close to it, but it decided that if it sat very still under this bit of grass we wouldn’t see it – totally impossible to photograph – but sooo cute!
so time for a bit of blogging, charging of knick knacks and soon to bed!  I do realise I have missed a couple of days and no photos yet, but just hang in there, they will come...

Stats for the day:  91km; 5:45 hours riding, 15.8kph avg, 49kph max (596)

Day 5: Liukonpellon Luomutila

marmalade & cheese sandwich - mmmm

It was a grey day that greeted us this morning.  Grey being – no breakfast offered and no coffee or tea in the room as well as the grey skies.  So we ate up some of the rye bread buns & cheese (with orange marmalade!) that we had bought for lunch and shared an apple.


this is our load - all together not each!

Cafe closed, not open till 10am

It was cold and raining lightly, so all the wet weather gear was dragged out: covers for the panniers and bags, jackets and waterproof pants and waterproof booties as well!  Fashionable!! Thermals were very much appreciated but our faces soon began to feel really cold too.  Shades of Estonia for sure!  We zinked down to the shop and stocked up our lunch supplies and then hit the road.

Karina - rugged up against the bitter cold wind & rain

Early on, we hopped on a little ferry (for free) and punted across a lake and just on the other side was a small local supermarket, where we went in for a little look and bought some milk.  Helped an elderly lady struggle out the door with a carton of beer and a big handbag!  No English spoken here, but it wasn’t necessary.  

It wasn’t too long before we detoured onto the short cut and unsealed road.  The rain had eased off but there was no sign of sunshine or warmth.  The first half of the sealed road was OK, firm and not gravelly, but plenty of hills to really try our patience – damn those Finnish Hills!  The forest was alive with bird sounds – but no sign of wildlife, no elk, no bears and no wolves… thankfully – tho a squirrel or 2 would have been nice – maybe a badger or hedgehog??  But nothing and no road kills either.

The little ferry heading back across the lake

The drains on each side of the road make it hard to get off and find a nice spot for lunch, so we turned down a small road for pit stop and lunch.  I walked along a bit trying to find a place over the drain, but nothing.  I was just hitching up my shirt, when I heard Karina call out and I looked back and there was a local lady cycling towards me with a big grin on her face.  What are the odds on that!!  So I waited awhile before I eventually relieved my bladder!

We spotted a few smultron growing alongside the road, but they are still not quite ripe – red on one side but not on the other.  Still give a bit of an idea of the intense flavour, but not quite…  later!

Not long after this we turned onto another unsealed road and things became decidedly worse.  Loose sharp gravel made riding hell and we got a bit cranky all round.  The hills added a little drama, not because of the puff up, but the hairy riding down on brakes and loose surface.  We had about 13km of this before getting onto Route 23 and riding with fairly constant traffic before the turnoff to Liukonpellan.  Another dirt road, but not topped with loose gravel.  Still plenty of sharp hills, but more farmland here. 

See the criss-cross bras straps & fish net cups? they were shy
& wouldn't come any closer

And Cows with Bras!  We saw this mob of black & white dairy cows and we could see they had leather straps around their bodies and on closer inspection realised they were bras!  We called out, so a couple came over a bit closer to see us.  We have since seen other herds with bras too!

And so to Liukonpellan – what I thought were cabins, turned out to be a home-stay set up.   Tarja was having a massage when we arrived, so we waited until that was finished.  Her English was very good and this made it really easy to sit and talk.  First Tarja offered us tea – made with fresh mint and this wonderful strawberry cake – Erik (Tarja’s son) was turning 20 the next day and they were having a family party for him.  Her mother had baked the cake (shades of midsommar cake), but Tarja had decorated it.  Cut into 2 layers with cream and banana in between, then covered with cream, sprinkled with grated chocolate and topped with huge chunks of strawberries – mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm  yummo!!

We unpacked and showered and then went upstairs again.  We were a little embarrassed as I had imagined there would be somewhere to buy a meal (doh!!) so we just had left over bread and cheese again.  But we were invited to share their evening birthday meal – typical Finnish simple meal, according to Tarja.  But very different for us!  Boiled new potatoes – to cover, spring onions in cream.  Also green salad, cherry tomatoes, pickled herring, fried zucchini in sundried tomato oil sprinkled with mozzarella cheese, broccoli plus breads – rye & crispbreads – I am sure Eero would have approved.  And I even tried the herring and am ashamed to say, it was quite nice, sweet and not too pickled tasting. 

Here comes the potatoes!

We helped pack up the evening meal, then stood around in the kitchen, talking about Finland and Australia – politics and social stuff.  It was really interesting to compare but it would seem in many ways that Australia and Finland are very similar.  It was a really great cultural sharing experience, but we were very tired after a really hard day of riding, so at 10:30 we struggled off to bed!

(OK so I whinged about the road and didn't photograph it for evidence?  Well I do have video of it, but it was too cold and wet to get out the SLR - sorry!)