Home again

 Back home again, time to reminisce on the long awaited trip.  Covid has halted touring plans, so it was a good to head over the ditch for a quick pedal.  Several Facebook posts about the Haruki Trail had decided me that this could be a quick and close-by trip to take.  

And it was.  China Airlines flights were really comfortable, accommodating and even early on the return flight.  Even the vegetarian meals were quite tasty and ample.  So tick for them, definitely recommend them if you're flying either to Taipei or Auckland.  The flight was only 3 hours to Auckland compared to other airlines that flew from Brisbane to Sydney or Melbourne with hours at each terminal.  And resonably priced!

My plan to catch a train down to Hamilton, then cycle to Cambridge worked.  From the window, I got the clear idea that the North Island is Green!  Cows are black and white!  I soon realised what was ahead.

Our first ride to Cambridge was a good wake up for this old body, although Hennie's chain was slipping far too often.  But that was fixed by the great mechanic at Spoke in Cambridge.

Cambridge, a small town, lots of cafes and the lake in the crater was quite beautiful to walk around.  The next day saw a bit of a punishing ride over to Matamata, steep rolling hills, but this was in New Zealand! 

Matamata was the start of the Hauraki Trail and the Trail was very clearly marked, which carried throughout the whole Trail.  Only got lost a couple of times, which is a miracle for me!  The trail surface was easy to ride on, in some places quite firm, in other places a little soft, but probably the best rail trail surface I have ridden on, so that was a bonus.

It was rather repetitive though.  After awhile, green paddocks, cows, sometimes sheep, once deer, all become a little tiring.  The mountain range to the east helped make the scenery more interesting, although my one attempt at venturing into that area - to the Wairere Falls - was a failure as I never reached the Falls after believing the Lookout to the Falls was only 15 mins up the track.  But walking in the forest there was quite interesting!

Riding through Karangahake Gorge and out to Waikino and onto Waihi Beach was the most interesting part of the whole trail, complete with its little adventures along the Gorge.  This section - Paeroa to Waihi is obviously the most popular section, including the train ride between Waikino and Waihi.

There were a couple of closures along the Trail, especially the one between Kupo and Waitakaruru, which was a tad sad.  But generally I enjoyed pedalling along the Trail, just enjoying being out with Hennie and cycling in another country.  Keeping out of the way of traffic always makes for an enjoyable pedal.

I certainly recommend the Hauraki Rail Trail for anyone who is looking for an easy, quiet pedal and New Zealand is quite a beautiful place to visit at any time.

I do wish that I had planned my last few days in Auckland a little better.  I ended up miles out of the city centre, stuck in boring suburbs and sulky!  I was thankful that the accommodation was quite close to the Airport and close to 99 Bikes where I managed to get another bike box to pack Hennie in for her return flight.  But wish that I had spent an extra day out in the country side and maybe one night in the city, before moving out to be closer to the airport.  Hindsight!  will consider that for next time!

Now I am left wondering where to go next!  I truly enjoyed myself, but was thankful that I was still pretty close to home.  Travelling to Europe still seems a tad risky!  But I still haven't ridden along all the marvellous bike ways in the Netherlands...  Stay tuned!

Hiding in Flatbush

I think I have jetlag - though I haven't got on the jet yet.  Its more a end of trip depression I think...  I had allowed a couple of days in Auckland, in case things went pear-shaped along the Trail.  But I had managed to keep to the schedule without any hiccups, so here I was, twiddling thumbs in Flat Bush.  (I keep thinking of Nutbush!)  and I don't like cities!  

The main reason for staying here in Flat Bush, was its proximity to the airport.  I managed to track down a 99Bikes shop only 5km away, (even closer to the airport) where they were sure they'd have a bike box for me on Friday.  I will ride over there and pack Hennie up there.  So hopefully that all works out well.  Then taxi to airport.

Without a car, the city centre is actually 30kms away (bikes not allowed on the freeway)!  This being a new subdivision here (all the houses are built on same pattern) the public transport isnt easy either.  I can walk for 2km to catch a bus, but need to change to another bus and then  after 1hr30m another 2km walk to get to the art gallery where there's a Frida Kahlo exhibition.  At the moment, it all feels too hard.  Maybe tomorrow.... or not!  

But I found a coffee shop only 2km up the road and enjoyed an omelette and a flat white for breakfast.  Probably will visit this again!

There's a green reserve running through this area, urban rainwater drain.  But its planted with a lot of NZ native flora and filled with non-native birds - sparrows, Indian Myna, blackbirds, thrush and starlings, but I spied some Purple Swamp Hens - Pukeko - with tiny babies, little black puffballs with huge feet!  so cute - and heard a tui, so will take camera and go for a ride along its length tomorrow otherwise I will just decay into the bed here...  I did take some photos on my photo which I will upload onto Instagram instead.  

so no photos here, just me whinging!  Maybe I need to start planning my next trip - that might help!  but missing Roxy and got snapped at by a little shi tsu when all I wanted was a doggy pat!  Wah!!!

Riding into Auckland

Two steep climbs ahead, one to get over the ridge then down into Kawakawa Bay, then the climb out of the Bay.  Another similar ridge to get over almost into Flat Bush, where my accomm for next 3 nights is booked.

Cloudy, but no wind as I pushed Hennie up the steep driveway and we headed off into the west.  there was a the gentle wind was now blowing from the east - unbelievable!! 

Quite pretty country, prosperous large farmswith dairy and sheep.  Then the road tilted upwards through a native forest reserve.  Time for walking and enjoying the tui birds calls, the ever present piping of kingfishers and the flashing tails of the flycatchers.  So many tree ferns, one wonders whether they will survive global warming.  Beautiful country makes it easier to walk thru!  Unfortunately our NZ cousins are just as bad as Aussies at littering, something that is so obvious for a slow walking cyclist!  

But then the downhill is always wonderful and soon we were skidding into Kawakawa Bay.  Looks like a perfect place to retire too.  Interesting though.... At Orere Beach there were many families of Maori or South Pacific Islanders, gathering in family groups, kids playing and I felt a tad conspicuous with my white skin...  But here in Kawakawa Bay, it looked like this was the place where the white people retire and build there lovely summer cottages...  perhaps....  but anyways, it was a wide sweeping bay, with islands dotted along the horizon.  The sea was gently lapping at the shelly beach and it was quiet and perfect place to have a rest.  

After a coffee from a little coffee van, with a very friendly hostess, Hennie and I headed once more for the hills.  This climb wasn't as long, but too steep and narrow for me to try and ride, so a short walk again.  Amazingly, the wind was still coming in from behind!  Soon the road stretched gently ahead, rolling up and over comfortable rises and after so much worry about this section, I thoroughly enjoyed this rideinto Clevedon.  

I thought the worst was over now, being close to Auckland, maybe the roads are wider and the shoulders easier to ride upon...  But no....  here the nightmare began.  A south road added a whole lot of traffic and I began to realise that this was a main road into Auckland.  At first there was a little bit of shoulder, but still too many B-double trucks, either empty or full of gravel were the main users.  Throw in vans, cars and 4 WDs going in both directions to add to the drama.  

It got a whole lot worse when I turned onto Mill Road because there was no shoulder at all.  It had been recently re-covered with a thick 5cm of bitumen, with the white line painted right on the edge.  So 5cm new, another 5cm of loose gravel and then long grass in some places, other places the bush came almost up to the road.  It was difficult to walk and push Hennie along, especially as the traffic now didn't think they needed to give 1m as I wasn't riding.  

We reached the steep ridge and the road still had no shoulder, in fact after the white line, it dropped into a gutter that was filled with rocks!  Stress and struggle!!  I eventually  got to the top and sailed down Murphy's road, top speed 54kmph, saw the street I was supposed to turn off, flash past, but managed to haul Hennie into Murphys Park.  There was a handy, but broken concrete slap (maybe once the lid of a septic tank, but I was past caring) propped Hennie on her stand and flaked out on the grass for a good 15 mins, before I was able to open my eyes and sit up again.  I was shattered!

I spent an hour in the park, eating lollies and drinking water and trying to find my mojo again.  We were only minutes away from my accommodation, but the traffic was too constant for me to cross the road to get back to the turn off.  Map.Me suggested there were paths through the forest that would lead me right out to my destination, so I pushed Hennie along a narrow path that popped out where a whole new subdivision was happening.  A lovely footpath on the other side of the fence - and no way of getting over it...  so further on and a push through long grass (there aren't any snakes in NZ thankfully) we popped out where we needed to be.

Very helpful staff gave me the key and sent me further up the road.  Knew that this accommodation was sort of AirB&B under another name, but when I booked I thought I was getting a private room, which included a kitchen, and washing machine as well as the bedroom/ensuite.  But no... its more like a share house and its quite clean and spacious, but there's not even a kettle in my room, nor a small fridge.  So was a bit pissed off about that...  but one copes!   Not that graciously but!!!

not many photos taken today, but here ya go!

Kawakawa Bay

Kawakawa Bay

Goodbye Kawakawa Bay

trying to regather my strength for last hill - NZ Flax bush

Murphys Park

Not a bad place to try and calm the nerves

Last day on the Hauraki Rail Trail - to Kaiaua and beyond

Cloudy skies, wind - but surely its not a tail wind today?  Yes!

After a quick breakfast, I headed back to the bird hides for one more look.  The tide was even higher, but still the godwits stayed far away.  

Time to get on the road!  Kaiaua was only 7km away - the offical start (for most people) or end (ie me) of the Hauraki Rail Trail.  This last section was riding on top of the chenier - a ridge of crushed seashells, so a little soft and tricky to stay upright!  One section was badly washed out, so we rode on the road for a short section.  Soon we arrived in Kaiaua and bought a coffee and a piece of quite yummy carrot cake.  Its always a tad sad at the end of a trail, but there were still plenty of kms ahead of us - some of them are UP! 

There wasn't too much traffic, just enough to annoy!  The road waved alongside the sea shore, slowly climbing a little higher each turn, but still manageable.  But sadly all good things come to an end and at Matingarahi, we turned inland and immediately the road began to seriously tilt upwards.

Oh dear, I thought that this past week or 2, my legs were getting stronger, but not for hills!  Soon it was safer to push Hennie along, rather than wobbling around trying to ride.  There was no shoulder and it seemed like a favourite section for speedsters, especially motorbikes to be driving/riding on this public holiday.  So we walked.  

Eventually we reached a rise and spent a little time conversing with some sheep.  A tiny lamb was hiding in a tussock and would not come out for a photo.  But it was time to get onto Hennie and coast down the other side of the ridge.  Unfortunately, the down is never as long as the up and soon, I was puffing and pushing Hennie up another ridge.  The westerly wind was gathering force too, trying to send us back to the coast.  But we struggled up another ridge and zoomed down the other side into Orere Point.  We then turned east and sailed down to Orere Beach and to the holiday park where I have a basic cabin for the night - tiny and very basic, but it is still better than Dicksons!

Am trying not to think about tomorrow's westerly ride back into Auckland - I know its gunna be a tough 50km, so an early start is required, hopefully getting a few kms done before the wind really picks up.

Sadly this holiday is quickly coming to an end.  But (excluding tomorrow) its been full of variety, some spectacular scenery and generally just fun to be out cycling again on unknown roads!

Excludes Section C to Waihi

Couldn't resist buying this coffee-in-a-can - from Japan!

Up and up!

Typical NZ farm, hills and sheep

Looking across the Firth of Thames

Orere Beach - the kids were having more fun 
swimming in the river than runs into the bay

Another sunny day - riding to Miranda

Sunshine is always welcome, even if it takes time in gathering any warmth.  We quickly loaded up and headed out of Dicksons Holiday Park, happily leaving it behind.

We found the foreshore path that ran all along the edge of the Firth, so dodging all the shops and traffic of Thames and soon had arrived at the bridge over the Waihou River at Kopu and turned our wheels to the west. 

Unfortunately, the Hauraki Trail is closed between Pipiroa and Waitakaruru, which I knew so the next 5km was along a busy highway, with almost constant traffic and only a narrow shoulder.

I 'd read about the Ngatea Wetlands, so turned left onto Bush Road and headed south.  As soon as one is off a major road ,the peace and quiet descends rapidly and we purled along through the ususal dairy farmlands.  But the cattle weren't used to seeing a cyclist, so their curiosity led them to gallop along the fenceline, laughing at such a strange sight!  So cute!

We arrived into Nagtea, where  I grabbed a coffee and a snack at the bakery and we rode off to their Wetlands, hoping to find a bench to sit on and gaze out over the wetlands.  Unfortunately, no bikes allowed and it was surrounded by a high fence and and entry fee to enter.  Oh well, we turned around and went back to the sporting ground park and had a nice fika there.

Another 10km of sharing the road with too many cars before we turned back to Waitakaruru, to join up with the trail again.  I had a chat with a young French guy that had take 2 months off work to cycle around New Zealand, having only left Auckland the day before.  He hadn't heard about the Hauraki rail trail, so I gave him my booklet though I suspect he will be sticking to the roads.  He was the first tourer I had seen, other cyclists usually just out for a day trip.  He was a bit disappointed that free camping wasn't available in NZ and I said also not  in Australia.  But am sure he will have a fabulous time.  

The northerly wind had strengthened a little, so our last section of today's ride was riding right into it, but it wasn't too long before we arrived at the Pukorokoro Shorebird Centre and was allocated a wonderful self contained unit - so much space and luxury!

After a shower, I rode back to the Hides to look for the godwits that this area is famous for.  The tide was coming in and the shorebirds come into a mudflat to roost until the tide goes out again.  There were huge flocks of godwits whirling in to settlefor the night, but my camera lens is not strong enough to capture them.  One must use ones imagination.  There were also black swans that have naturlised themselves here from Australia.  and heaps of other sorts of birds too, so maybe before I head off in the morning, I'll zink back there - its only 2.5km from here  just in case I can get a better look during the morning high-tide.

So ends another day in New Zealand.  Almost 60km due to our detours and tomorrow only about 10km left of the trail to ride.  Then Hennie and me will be at the mercy of the traffic and the hills on our way to Orere Pt and then the following day, back to Auckland.  Why do holidays go so fast!

dodgy caravan at Dicksons

Bridge over the Waihou River

Straight farm roads

A fellow tourer, the young French guy's bike n Hennie

That light brown streak is thousands of godwits

Spot the black swans!

A sunny rest day in Thames.

1st on my list was laundry, so put my $4 in and my clothes and the water starts running!  Good, be back in 35 mins.  Plenty of time for breakfast.  I need to buy food, when washing is finished I will head into town.  35min later I go to rescue my washing.  Lift the lid and the machine is full of water and no action!  Bah!!  over to reception - not open till 8.30, so an hour to wait.  Fume!  eventually the guy turns up and eventually gets it working.  says it will run thru the whole cycle again, but as soon as it finishes it first spin, my clothes were out.  he can fix it for the next unlucky person...  so over this place!

Anyways, Hennie and me headed into town, walked thru the market, found a crowded coffee shop and had a good coffee and an almond croissant.  went to 4 square, bought a cider for tea tonight, some bananas and mandarins and some anti-persnickety snacks, they might help with my mood.

a quick lunch, then Hennie and me headed off for a quiet pedal north.  She sings along the road without those panniers!  We got to Tapu, which was 15km up the road before we decided to stop for an ice-cream and a cold drink.  It was really a lovely day for cycling and although the traffic was a tad busy, my mood was brightened considerably. Looking over the Firth of Thames, I could see the otherside, where we will be tomorrow, fingers crossed.

Nothing like warm sunny weather and a nice bike ride to brighten things up, but I will be happy to leave Dicksons behind!

Paeroa to Thames - thru farming land

Overcast and cool start to the day after a proper breakfast prepared by Brenda. Goodbye and soon we were back in the green farmlands, with the milk cows recently released from the milking sheds and now hungrily devouring the grass to make more milk by afternoon.  

It was an easy ride, but nothing that exciting.  The mountain range running parallel to the path and to the east, helped to set quite an idyllic scene.

As midday approached, we veered off the trail to the Cheese Barn, where I could get a proper coffee!  The Spinach n Feta tart looked good, and it was!  as was the coffee.  There were several people there, locals as the farming talk portrayed.  Overheard one woman say that the AI had finished and they'd let their bulls out...  

But back to the trail and heading into Thames and onto the Dickson Holiday Park, where my booked caravan was awaiting.  Not quite - the cleaners were running a little late, could I come back in an hour?  Sure, so I dumped the panniers in the reception area and Hennie and I went off for a look around.

Found a beach site covered in hundreds of Pied Oystercatchers with a few Sootys amongst them.  Also a large colony of Pied Cormorants.  I found a art gallery in an old building, so went in and was quite impressed with the high quality of the paintings. 

Just down the road was a little corner shop that sold mainly bait, but I bought 500ml milk and treated myself to an ice-cream before heading back to Dicksons.  unfortunately, no beer or cider available there!

My Caravan expectation was based on the wonderful little caravan that I stayed in at Jackson's Retreat on the South Island in 2017.  Maybe their standards were very high, as they weren't reflected in the rather daggy old caravan that my key fitted.  Its OK, but defo about 1 star.  No cooking facilities here, fridge without shelves and no table, just a bed at one end and a sofa at the other. No top sheet either, just a velour blanket.  Thankfully I packed my silk sleeping bag and saround.  No towels, so back to reception, $3 for 2 towels! No wifi either,  just 30min vouchers, so was given 3 of those.  

The amenities block was quite a walk away, but headed up for a shower. $1 for 5min shower.  Back to reception to get coins, also $4 required for the washing machine tomorrow.  At least the water was hot!  The kitchen area looked a tad dodgy too, so decided that all I needed was a cup of soup and some toast, thankful for the electric kettle and toaster!

And then it started to rain...  so a grumpy end to the day!  Am not a fan of places that quote one price, then all these other extras are added on.  I had trouble finding available accom in Thames.  At that time, didn't realise that it was a long weekend!  so I now understand why Dicksons was probably the last on most peoples list.  

Thankfully there is a radiator here, so that is going full blast to counteract the damp cold that is seeping into this little van!  Goodnight!

Back to Paeroa

That dreaded 2km of steep road to get up and away from Waihi Beach was ahead of us.  I planned to get to Waihi by 9 to catch the 9:45 Historic Train to Waikino - a 30min ride covering about 9km.  But it would give my legs a little rest before continuing onto Paero, only a 15km ride to the B&B.  

I woke at 5.30, listening for that westerly wind.  Not too bad yet! Good news!  a quick breakfast and soon Hennie was loaded up and by 7:15am we were on our way.

I thought it would take at least an hour to push Hennie up the 2km winding road.  We managed to get to the warning side, before I had to get off and start pushing!  There were a couple of flats, probably totalling only about 300m, which meant I could cycle a bit before the next struggle upwards.  After about 30 mins, we popped out the top!  That didn't take that long after all.  Head wind now, but thankfully there were a few hedges that protected us from the wind and was quite surprised to arrive so quickly at the intersection onto Highway 2, leading right into Waihi.

We rolled down to the old train station only to see that the week-day timetable only leaves at 11:30.  Do I wait or do I ride onwards?  it was time for a proper coffee, so I decided I would go up into the town and have a look around before coming back to catch the train.  Coffee found as well as slice and a bit of people watching, while sitting in the cool sunshine  Waihi and also Paeroa are the sort of towns, where one might get cranky if there's not a parking place outside the shop you want to visit.  

Being at the end of a leg of the Hauraki Rail trail, didn't make it any friendlier towards cyclists tho!  signs everywhere - no bikes here and a few rev heads unable to overtake that safely.  I had tried to lock Hennie to a bike rack next door to the coffee shop, but the cranky old shop keeper came out and said no, I wasn't allowed to park there.  Those barriers were to stop cars ramming into his shop.  Surely that doesn't happen here, I say?  oh yes, there's been some in the past, but not for 20 years...  

I went up to see the Old Pump house and to peer over the edge of a massive hole in the ground where some gold had been mined.  Still an eyesore!

eventually we returned to the train station, bought our tickets - $2 for Hennie and $15 for me and waited for the guards to get things ready for today's journey.  Hennie was heaved into a open carriage which was lined with a bike rack.  She was joined by several elecric bikes and only a couple of the old school!  Hennie was the only one loaded for a long tour, the others being day trippers.  There was also an open carriage for passengers, but I chose to sit inside the original carriage.  A few people stayed out there for awhile, before coming inside to warm up again!

It was quite a pleasant and relaxing ride in the rickety train, catching glimpses of the trail that we had ridden on Tuesday.    Short and sweet!  Soon we were in Waikino and Hennie and I were heading off back to Karangahake and onwards to Paeroa.

Instead of riding back through the Karangahake tunnel, I thought we would follow the Windows walk, which scouted around the other side of the river.  Hmmm...  not the best idea!  it was narrow and definitely not for cycling unless you're Danny Macaskill!!  There was one section where Hennie almost went swimming!  A steep downhill corkscrew section - only 2 sharp bends, very steep and Hennie really wanted to bounce ahead and leave me all alone.  Thankfully, I managed to keep her on the narrow path.  

The last obstacle was the suspension bridge.  All OK to get onto the bridge, but then there were steep steps to get off the other end!  So again, Hennie nearly got dropped as she tried to race ahead.  So defo not a bike path andmaybe that should be made more obvious...  

But after that little drama, we scooted off along the easy path that led right back into Paeroa and onto the Paeroa B&B, where I am now ensconsed in a wonderful charming old style home.  Very lovely welcome too, from a big old and mostly deaf dog.  All good.

Goodbye Waihi Beach, now the walk begins!

The Pumphouse - Waihi

The train station

Inside the original carriage

Where Hennie almost went swimming

Rest Day at Waihi Beach

 Windy weather greeted me this morning.  Unfortunately the wind is coming in from the west, which will mean head wind out of here tomorrow - dread!  but today was about being slack!

A slow start to the day.  took advantage of the washing machine here, so after the clothes were flapping madly on the clothes line, I decided I should go for a little ride.

Hennie and I headed south to Athenree, where I kept my eye open for a path around the Wetland reserve.  Head wind, but the coastal road was fairly protected by a row houses.  A quick peak over the sand dunes, confirmed that the sea was still quite calm, maybe the westerly wind keeping the surf under control.

We found a path and headed around the inlet.  the tide was out, but there wasn't too much to see in the bird scene.  a kingfisher and a white-faced heron plus the always present silver gulls were the total.  

but the bush was thick with ti-tree bushes, plus NZ flax and a variety of plants I have no idea what they were.  I did see lots of gorse and a variety of what looked like escaped garden plants, such as fresias and lilies and who knows what else.  But it was lovely quiet ride, only saw 3 other cyclists.

The ride back to holiday park was a cruisy ride, just gotta love a tail wind.

After lunch, I had a little snooze, then Hennie and me went for a little pedal down to the Rapatiotio Point - only 1.5km each way.  I was hoping there was a cycle track around the point, but it was only for walking.  So took some photos and came home.  

have to get packed up as much as possible tonight, so I can get an early start on the B!! ridge - maybe before the wind really picks up - 2km walk uphill I fear!  be prepared for some whinging tomorrow!

Wetlands sheltered path

Inlet

Waihi Beach

Rapatiotio Point

Tuhua/Mayor Island